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Grimper à Holštejn

250 voies
5 domaines
3–12- notes

Holštejn, dans le Karst morave, offre 250 voies dans cinq secteurs – Lidomorna, Vaňousovy díry, V buči, Nad holštejnskou jeskyní et Stará rasovna. Ses parois calcaires déversantes et verticales comptent parmi les plus difficiles de Tchéquie ; du 3 au 12-.

Faisant partie de Karst morave, Holštejn possède 250 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 3 à 12-. Explorez ses 5 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Règles

OVK: in technical ascents of freely climbed routes, only removable protection can be used; it is forbidden to use pitons, bolts, spits, etc. installed with a hammer Nature protection: - climbers are obliged not to leave protection in the routes after completing the ascent

Nature protection: Climbing is prohibited on some rocks from January 1st to June 30th. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016, Nature Protection authority: CHKO Moravský Kras.

À Holštejn, il est interdit de sortir au sommet des falaises.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques s'appliquent. Nouvelles voies uniquement avec l'accord de la commission régionale ČHS de Moravie du Sud.

Parking

49.40261, 16.77783

Google Waze
Lidomorna 92 voies Vaňousovy díry 55 voies V buči 51 voies Nad holštejnskou jeskyní 41 voies Stará rasovna 11 voies
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
9-
Lidomorna
To the left of Kontraverze, boulder style over two rivets/small bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
From the sloping corner of Starobrno, right over the bulge into the second corner and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
6
Lidomorna
Upper easier traverse above the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Lidomorna
Same as Starobrno, but from the upper slab directly up (left rappel point). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Lidomorna
Original classification V+ A0, RP T. Pilka, 1985 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-
Lidomorna
Traverse left just above the edge of the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+
Lidomorna
Start all the way to the right and along the upper edge of the roof to the third (bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Lidomorna
Like 'New Normal Route' but later straight up a vertical wall.
9+
Lidomorna
In the right part of the cave, over two BH (bolts) across the overhang and to the belay… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10/10+
Lidomorna
Along the upper edge of the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
In the right part of the cave straight over the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+
Lidomorna
Along the lower edge of the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Lidomorna
Over three borhaks (bolts) into the route 'Glutaman' and along it to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +1
10-
Lidomorna
Via the route 'Kašpárek's little grave' to the second (bolt/anchor) and from there left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
Overhang via chiseled edges/ledges to the belay/rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Lidomorna
Through the barricade to the second (bolt/anchor) and from there right into Kašpárek. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Lidomorna
Through Kašpárek to the second (bolt/anchor), left into Barricade and from the last one… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Lidomorna
Start right of the sign (slab/route) over two borhaks (bolts) up and then diagonally left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
Via 'The Sign' (route/slab) to the third (bolt/anchor) and right onto the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Lidomorna
From the no-hand rest above the key (crux) of 'The Sign', right through the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Lidomorna
Original classification, V+A3 RP A. Eichmaier, 2014, ends in No-hand rest. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
Via 'The Sign' (route/slab) over its hardest part to the no-hand rest and from there… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10+
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
RP T. Pilka, 1986 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Lidomorna
Through the crack and corner around the sign to the belay/rappel point.
11-/11
Lidomorna
Extension of Koschei over two BH (bolts) to the shelf. Ends in Kudlanka. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11
Lidomorna
Between Hradní spára and Kostěj Nesmrtelný via 7 bolts into Hradní spára, then 5m up and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-/11
Lidomorna
Bouldering power moves. Ends at the rappel in the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11+
Lidomorna
First 5 bolts of Perla východu, but we do not traverse left, but simply go straight up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
12-
Lidomorna
Start like Kostěj Nesmrtelný, from the right we avoid a good rest via the crux of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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