Faisant partie de 16. U Josefovy hlavy, Josefova (Stalinova) hlava possède 25 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2+ à 10-/10. Les itinéraires sont répertoriés ci-dessous avec des notes de qualité, de style et de communauté.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.
Règles
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Escalade de jour uniquement.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7+/8-
Eule mit Beule
To the right of the Easy Livin route, along the edge and further up the wall via 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
In Flagranti
From the 4th bolt of "Masquerade Ball" (ledge), left through the overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Katapult
From the 1st bolt of "Hesitant Shooter", steeply left across the wall and rib via 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Oklika (Náhorní cesta)
From the Nagorný massif descend to the ledge, step over and directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Služební volno
Approach to the southern pillar (Sojka) from the rock outcrop. Overhang in the corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Českoněmecko
From the summit of "Sova", along the edge of "Stalin's Head" over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Easy Livin
From the SW corner briefly to the balcony, directly up the wall into a small crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Nedělní komín
Through the valley chimney to the plateau and from there through the E chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Rotátor
Approach from the rock outcrop to the left of the route "Service Leave". Up a small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hnízdění
Through the chimney to Sova, in its upper part from the corner left into the wall to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Jarní cesta
To the right of the chimney between Sova and Josef's Head, a corner double crack to a… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Konflikt
To the left of the Sunday Chimney route, up the wall to the bolt, right and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Proces
To the right of Direct Invitations, over the pillar via 4 bolts to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Váhavý střelec
From the top of Sova, along the wall over BH and K into the chimney. Through it over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Pozvánka
In the NW wall, right of the start of the "Konklave" route, through cracks into a shallow… Rock Climbing
6-
Konkláve
In the N wall through a deep corner up to below the large overhang (1st K). Traverse left… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Přímá Pozvánka
Through the crack and wall over to K directly to 1st K "Invitations". Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Gitana
To the left of "Chimney" on Cuckoo, through a crack, then up the wall to 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Gulag
Up the wall between the routes Invitation and Direct Invitation over 4 bolts and a rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Person of Interest
As Cult of Personality to the 2nd ring and straight up over 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dolní varianta
Between "Cult of Personality" and "Planet of the Apes" up the wall into the hole, along… Rock Climbing
6-
Planeta opic
Left in the N wall via a hand crack to K, traverse right into another crack and along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Návrat na planetu opic
From the 1st K of Planet of the Apes, up the wall slightly left over BH to the end of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kult osobnosti
Right of "Planet of the Apes" up the rib to the 1st K and up to the next rib (2nd K).… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Nová věcnost
As "Cult of Personality" to the 1st K and right up the wall and overhang. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay