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Grimper à Monts de Lusace

3192 voies
5 domaines
1–10 notes

Les monts de Lusace se trouvent au nord de la Bohême, à la frontière saxonne, entre Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí et Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, et se prolongent côté allemand par les monts de Zittau. La zone paysagère protégée est faite de collines boisées, certaines étant des corps volcaniques dégagés des sédiments crétacés – comme le Jezevčí vrch en trachyte à sodalite, protégé comme réserve naturelle nationale – avec entre elles des villes rocheuses de grès et des belvédères comme Popova skála, Krkavčí skály ou le monument naturel Sloní kameny.

On grimpe surtout sur un grès compact. Les sites les plus connus sont Horní skály (Obrvégry) près de Rynoltice, adapté aussi aux débutants, et le Falkenstein avec le Sokolík et les tours Cvičná věž au-dessus de Dolní Světlá. Beaucoup de voies de Horní skály ont été ouvertes il y a plus d'un siècle, certaines en 1904. La magnésie est interdite dans les sites d'escalade des monts de Lusace et de la Jizera et les règles du grès s'appliquent. Pour Horní skály, se garer à environ 3 km de Rynoltice le long de la route 13 juste avant le village ; pour le Falkenstein, parking gratuit en haut de Dolní Světlá puis sentier vert jusqu'à la barrière frontière et 300 m à gauche jusqu'aux tours. On peut grimper presque toute l'année ; les week-ends d'été sont bondés.

Faisant partie de Tchéquie, Monts de Lusace possède 3192 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 10. Explorez ses 5 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Règles

Sur le grès, les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent – pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement. Sur les autres roches, ce sont les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7
Havran
From the belay station to the right and via an oblique crack to the edge. Receding wall… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Havran
"Údolní cestou" over the 1st bh and along the slab over the 2nd bh under the corner.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havran
From the ring to the left up to the nest, traverse behind the edge and Nebeskou c. to the… Rock Climbing
6
Havran
From the highest point of the ledge to the left, crack over the overhang 3m up, step to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Havran
From the base of the right part of the valley wall, up large holes to the ledge on the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Havran
From the NW edge to the left (1st ring), crack, chimney and wall (2nd ring) to the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havran
From the ledge over an overhang into the oblique notch in the smooth wall. Through it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
6
Havran
Start at the lowest point of the NW wall. From the right into the slab and through it via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Havran
From the base of the right part of the valley wall to the recess under the small roof … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Havran
From the base of the right part of the valley wall to the edge of the pillar 1st bh. hand… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Havran
Starting from the NW forecourt, traverse diagonally right upwards to the small platform,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Havran
Via the chimney, higher up via an overhanging wall to the platform and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Havran
Through the hollow, up the steps under the overhang, above it with a crack to the right,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Havran
Up the steps, higher up through the hollow into the hole. Crack to the right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Havran
To the right of Kirchhof's route, via the gully over two rings (forged and stainless… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havran
After climbing onto the platform, straight up along the overhanging edge over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havran
From the left in the cornice under the crack, then over a large overhang to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Havran
Via EL CHORRO to the 1st BH. Directly over the 2nd BH and along the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Havran
From the forecourt over the overhang to the ring and slightly right along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Havran
In the upper part of the west wall, to the right of "Russian Roulette". Start with a slab… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Havran
From the center of the wall through a crack diagonally to the right to the tip (loop) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Havran
Over the overhang and to the left by a crack to a platform and to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Havran
In the left part of the upper wall, directly to the bolt hanger, slightly from the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Havran
Along the wall over an overhang to K and over 2 overhangs to a platform. Freely n. v. Fixed belay
6
Havran
Diagonally left along the wall (circle) to the edge and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Havran
From the uphill side to Little Raven, to the right around the edge to a large rock corner… Rock Climbing
1
Havran
From the passage always to the right for a year to the mouth of a narrow through-climb… Rock Climbing
4
Havranpírko
Start in the right part of the wall over 2 bolt hangers under an overhanging edge, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Havran
From the corner of the Old Route to the right along the hollow by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Havranpírko
Start in the left part of the massif on a slanting edge and along it over two bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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