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Faisant partie de Milenecká hora, Milenci possède 24 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 5 à 8+/9-. Les itinéraires sont répertoriés ci-dessous avec des notes de qualité, de style et de communauté.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Spare Route.

Règles

Nature Conservation: Climbing is not allowed. Nature Conservation Document: Conservation measure 2019, Conservation Authority Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area.

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.
  • Seuls les membres de la ČHS peuvent ouvrir des voies.
  • Encadrement uniquement par groupes de 3 personnes maximum avec un moniteur.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

8+/9-
Milenci
Opposite the start of the Old Route, up the chimney, higher up through a crack (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Milenci
Through the chimney "C. of Sunshine" to the pillar and further along the edge of Milenec… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
?
Milenci
From the gorge between Culík and Caparty, up the chimney to the crack of Pilířová route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Milenci
From the SE, to the right of Pilířová route, through a crack (2 circles) to the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Milenci
From Milenecká at the level of the 'letecká' shelf, up the wall and over the overhang via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Milenci
In the left part of the SE wall of Milenec, up the chimney to the saddle and through a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Milenci
From the upper window, traverse the wall to the left, through a crack (circle) over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Milenci
From the highest point of Milenecká Corridor, up the chimney through a recess into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8/8+
Milenci
From the 2nd circle of the "Letecká" wall, traverse 2 circles to the ledge and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Milenci
At the beginning of Milenecká Corridor, a crack and overhang (2 circles) into a difficult… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Milenci
Via the chimney of the Milenecká cesta (Lovers' Way) to where it's passable to the SE… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Milenci
The start is in the corner on the east side of the tower. Via a system of cracks (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
8-/8
Milenci
Via the "Linka důvěry" (Line of Trust) route into the cave (bivouac). Via opposition (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Milenci
In the right part of the SE wall via a system of cracks into the cave, then a chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8+/9-
Milenci
Left of the "Linka důvěry" (Line of Trust) route via a crack to the balcony. Traverse the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Milenci
From the NW from the stream via a chimney to the ring. Via a crack to the terrace and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
To the right of the Pilíř (Pillar) tower in the corner via a chimney to the pillar (also… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Milenci
From the summit of Pilíř (Pillar) tower, jump to the ledge and follow it left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Milenci
Via the "Přes věžičky" (Over the Turrets) route to the pillar. To the right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
Via the chimney of the "Přes fichtli" variant around its ring, further up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Milenci
From the NW, from the fore-rock, via a chimney to the ring. Traverse the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Milenci
Up the entrance chimney of St. c. all the way to the end. Left along the ledge above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Milenci
Start near the Old Way directly up the chimney to the plateau, left (1st ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Milenci
From the Lovers' Corridor via a chimney in the Milenka massif into the inner space. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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