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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Hranáč
Up the middle of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hranáč
From the start of Slimácká, traverse the wall to the left to the North edge below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Hranáč
To the left of the East edge, traverse the wall to the right behind the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
3
Hranáč
Along the right part of the NW wall along the edge to the ledge. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4+
Bambulka
Through the crack (widened at the bottom) directly into the chimney and via the 'Clown's… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Bambulka
From the South, from the passable passage, via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Bambulka
Up the right part of the NE wall (ring) and right along the edge to the balcony. Via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Bambulka
From NW, via cracks towards the hourglass and traverse left into a chimney. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bambulka
Up the left part of the NE wall (1st ring) to the balcony. Over the boulder to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Bambulka
From SW, a long traverse left on a sloping ledge and via a crack to the 1st ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
Přeskok
Bambulka
From the South, from the massif, by a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bambulka
Via a small ridge into a traverse and along the 'Mobilomania' route to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4+
Kočička
From the North, via a crack to the balcony and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Kočička
In the left part of the valley wall, via a double crack and higher up via a chimney to… Rock Climbing
4-
Kočička
Via a chimney between the tower and BAMBULKA to a vegetated balcony. Left along the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kočička
Up the valley's NE wall along the crack (1st ring) and along the wall over an overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna nad mýtinou
From the right edge of the NE wall, via a diagonal corner left to a small platform.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kočička
From the inner space (between "Kočička" and "Bambulka"), via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kočička
Via the 'For Fat Gentlemen' route to a vegetated balcony. Via a narrow chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kočička
Via the 'Across the Balcony' route to the 2nd ring. Left along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7-/7
Stěna nad mýtinou
Through the middle of the wall (2 rings) to a prominent ledge with a large hourglass and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Stěna nad mýtinou
Via the 'Pudding' route to the 1st ring. Via a small ridge to the 3rd ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Stěna nad mýtinou
Via the 'Emotional Investment' route to the 3rd ring. Up the wall to the left and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Stěna nad mýtinou
In the left part of the NE wall, via a small ridge to the 1st ring and along the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Stěna nad mýtinou
Along the prominent edge in the NE wall (5 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Stěna nad mýtinou
In the left part of the wall, via a small ridge to the 1st ring. Diagonally left (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Stěna nad mýtinou
From NW via cracks to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
3
Stěna nad mýtinou
Via a chimney in the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Severní bastion
From the NE, along the edge of the rib (2 rings) to its summit. Over the crest (3rd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Severní bastion
From the SE, up the wall over a small overhang and along the edge to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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