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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Dodovka
Up the wall along the edge directly to the 1st ring of the 'Anting' route and follow it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Stěna za Dodovkou
From the terrace below the right part of the wall, ascend a short chimney and left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dodovka
From the plateau side, go up the wall to the terrace and along the ledge left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Stěna za Dodovkou
The ascent is the same as the 'Wall Crack' route. Diagonally left up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna za Dodovkou
The ascent starts under the right part of the NE wall behind the boulder. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna za Dodovkou
From the left edge of the terrace (left of 'Magic of Movement'), go up the wall into the… Rock Climbing
2+
Stěna za Dodovkou
The route starts via the 'Magic of Movement' chimney, through which you climb into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna za Dodovkou
The start is the same as the 'Panoptikum' route. Via the 'Sokolík' (Falcon-like corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Stěna za Dodovkou
In the right part of the wall, via a prominent crack to a small platform. Via a corner or… Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna za Dodovkou
In the left part of the valley wall, via a crack to the ring. Via the 'Sokolík' (Falcon… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Stěna za Dodovkou
To the right of the 'Spára' (Crack) route, directly up the wall (3 rings) to the saddle.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna za Dodovkou
Via the 'Spára' (Crack) route to the ring. To the right, via the disappearing crack into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěna za Dodovkou
Via the 'Zezadu' (From Behind) route to the ledge and along it traverse right to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Stěna za Dodovkou
From the SW, up the steps to the ledge, obliquely left via a corner into the saddle, and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stěna za Dodovkou
To the left of the route, a crack up the wall (1st ring) to the ledge and traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna za Dodovkou
In the left part of the SE wall, via a falcon-like crack over the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Stěna za Dodovkou
In the S wall, via a crack to the ring, up the wall to the balcony, and via the 'Jiříkovy… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Prokletá
Via the 'Sokolík' (Falcon) route for 3m and traverse the wall right behind the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Stěna za Dodovkou
From the adjacent pillars on the NW side of the tower, by jumping into the saddle and via… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Prokletá
From the NW, from the edge, via a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Prokletá
From the S edge, from the gully between the towers, via the wall (ring) to the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Prokletá
From the NE, via cracks to the ledge, a long traverse left to a small balcony with a ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Prokletá
Up the wall along the E edge (2 rings), higher up to the left along the edge to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Prokletá
Up the wall to the left of the corner crack directly to the holes. Traverse into the… Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Prokletá
Between the tower and the edge (aid climbing) into the chimney. Via opposition and the… Rock Climbing
4+
Prokletá
From the S edge, traverse right in the holes to the corner crack. Via the 'Sokolík' … Rock Climbing
5+
Prokletá
From the SE, via the corner crack to the small platform, and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Grinch
From the S wall along the E ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Souhvězdí Polárky
Along the SE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Grinch
From the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing

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