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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Hladká
Unknown climbers: From NE, through the chimney between the tower and the 'okrajovka' … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hladká
Like 'Žlutá cesta' (Yellow Route) to the 'hodiny' (hourglass formation) and further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Vyhlídka
Up the wall along the E edge, over the ring to a small platform and left along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Hladká
In the NW wall, up the crack to the ring, traverse left to the crack of the 'Pod slaněním… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Zbrojnoš
From the NE, up the falcon-like crack and left along the wall to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Zbrojnoš
Through the chimney between the tower and Hladká, higher up the wall to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Zbrojnoš
From SW, up the wall diagonally left to the edge to the 1st ring. Left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Zbrojnoš
Left of the E edge, up the corner to the balcony. Via the 'Brnivka' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Trosky
Via the route 'Zábavná cesta' (Fun Route) to the saddle. From the saddle, up the finger… Rock Climbing
4-
Trosky
Across the block below the NE wall to the start. Through the crack to the saddle between… Rock Climbing
6-
Zbrojnoš
From the E edge, traverse left along the wall behind the edge and along it to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Trosky
From the alley between Klíč and the tower base, through the chimney and crack into the… Rock Climbing
3
Trosky
Via the chimney between the tower and Zbrojnoš to the NW ledge and via the Zábavné cesty… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Trosky
From the summit of Zbrojnoš by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Trosky
From the boulders on the SW side of the tower, up the wall to a small platform on the S… Rock Climbing
4-
Trosky
From the SE, up the wall along the crack to its end. Traverse left along the ramp into… Rock Climbing
5
Klíč
Left of the Klíčová hrana route, up the wall to the ring and then right or left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Výří brána
From the upper fore-summit along the ledge right into the SW wall. Up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kulisa u Výří brány
NE wall over the ring into a crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Krákorka
Along the valley North edge below the summit, wall to the left and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Krákorka
Directly up the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Krákorka
NE wall (ring) below the summit and by the "Valley Edge" crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2+
Krákorka
From SW directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Krákorka
From the start of the 'Plateau Face' route, right into the NE face and take the 'Valley… Rock Climbing
2+
Krákorka
Up the plateau's SE face diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Krákorka
Up the center of the left adjacent edge face to the ledge, traverse right, step over to… Rock Climbing
4+
Krákorka
Left of the 'Beetle's Way' route, up the chimney or crack to the widening (thread) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Šiša Palma
Along the left valley edge of the left block (bolt) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Šiša Palma
Crack in the left part of the valley face to the bolt of the 'Head Jam' route and then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Bašta
Up the SE wall (1st ring) to the holes, in them left to the edge and along it (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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