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Faisant partie de 15. U Žlebské jehly, Otesánek possède 16 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 4+ à 8+/9-. Les itinéraires sont répertoriés ci-dessous avec des notes de qualité, de style et de communauté.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall.

Règles

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

6+/7-
Otesánek
SW edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Otesánek
From the start of the "SE route" up the S face via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Otesánek
From the plateau side, traverse above the overhang to the right all the way to the SE… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Otesánek
Along the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Otesánek
From the start of the "Old Path" left and up the face to the summit. (Renovations changed… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Otesánek
Through the center of the plateau face to the ledge, right into the hole and by crawling… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Otesánek
In the S face along the left edge to the 1st K and traverse diagonally right to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Otesánek
From the 2nd K diagonally left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Otesánek
From 1st K "Scent of Lilies of the Valley" directly over 2 K to 3rd K "Scent of Lilies of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Otesánek
In the right part of the valley wall to the 1st K. Slightly left via the gully to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8/8+
Otesánek
Through the left part of the valley wall over 2 BH to the 2nd BH of the route "Expulsion… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Otesánek
From the 1st BH of the route "Expulsion of Germans" from the right side of the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Otesánek
As the route Expulsion of Germans to the 2nd BH. Then diagonally right and directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Otesánek
In the valley wall from the left diagonally right (BH) to the 2nd BH, up the wall over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Otesánek
Left of the route "Czechs to Czechs" via a short corner and overhanging wall over 7 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Otesánek
S overhanging wall over 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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