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Grimper à Ptačí rokle

29 voies
5 domaines
1–8 notes

Faisant partie de Blatečky, Ptačí rokle possède 29 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 8. Explorez ses 5 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall.

Règles

- The permit applies to free climbing, ice climbing, dry tooling, bouldering, and via ferrata are not allowed. - Trees and vegetation cover of the rocks must not be removed. Do not damage the surface of the rock. - RP (Redpoint) and OS (Onsight) are prohibited if the rope rubs, extend the belay on the rock so that the edge does not rub. - Magnesium and metal belay devices are prohibited. - It is forbidden to abseil from trees and shrubs, climbing on rocks soaked with water, snow-covered, and icy. - Climbing only from below, max. 5 team members, TOP ROPE is prohibited. 7a

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round in designated polygons. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps, Conservation Authority Kokořínsko Protected Landscape Area.

  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs) – seulement anneaux, sangles, nœuds et « UFO ».
  • On grimpe uniquement du bas ; la moulinette est interdite.
  • Cordées de 5 grimpeurs au maximum.
  • Interdit de rappeler sur arbres ou arbustes.
  • Interdit de grimper sur rocher mouillé, enneigé ou verglacé – le rocher est fragile, ne grimpez que par temps bien sec.
  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent (pas de magnésie).
3
Klekánice
By the SW wall to the window, diagonally right to the edge and along it upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Klekánice
From the window left to the balcony and upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Rolnička
Along the left valley edge upwards.
5
Rolnička
By the right part of the plateau wall upwards.
4
Rolnička
Through the center of the plateau wall upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Rolnička
Along the right valley edge upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rolnička
Along the left plateau edge upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Paličáci
Through the overhanging corner in the valley wall of Velký Paličák up into the crack and… Rock Climbing
3
Paličáci
Via the overhang from M to the edge of Malý Paličák and directly along it upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Paličáci
Through the chimney between the Paličáks upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Paličáci
From the valley, from the chimney, along the arête and right to the balcony. Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Paličáci
Below the rappel, step over into the hole (hourglass) and up from the right upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Paličáci
From the massif to the summit of Velký Paličák. Rock Climbing
4
Paličáci
Through the chimney from J to the ledge, over the overhang, and traverse left to the West… Rock Climbing
7
Hlaváček
From the anchor (K) of the original route, directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Palice
Traverse from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Palice
Through the chimney over the hourglass upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Palice
Along the right valley edge over 2 K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Palice
Via the wall below the rappel over the anchor (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Palice
From the S edge left into the face and through the small cave to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Hlaváček
Through the middle of the NE face directly to the anchor (K). Right to the crack, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Hlaváček
Via the eastern edge over the anchor (K) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Palice
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hlaváček
Via the left or right crack onto the pillar and to the anchor (K), upwards into the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlaváček
In the left part of the upper (SE) face diagonally left to the anchor (K), by stepping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlaváček
Via the 'Black Variant' to the anchor (K), directly upwards and via the right edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Hlaváček
Right of the 'Valley Route' through the middle of the face to the anchor (K) and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hlaváček
Left of the original route, via a depression to the anchor (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hlaváček
In the right part of the SE face diagonally left to the anchor (K), to the terrace and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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