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Grimper à Moravie du Nord

2678 voies
4 domaines
1–10 notes

La Moravie du Nord associe l'escalade de montagne dans les Jeseníky et des rochers dans les collines au sud, vers la Porte morave. Le Hrubý Jeseník, dans les régions d'Olomouc et de Moravie-Silésie, est le plus haut massif de Moravie, culminant au Praděd (1 491 m) ; il est formé de gneiss, d'amphibolite, de granite et d'ardoise et se trouve presque entièrement dans la zone paysagère protégée des Jeseníky. Parmi les formations connues figurent les Čertovy kameny et les Petrovy kameny, et parmi les sites d'escalade importants Rabštejn, Skály v Ludvíkově, Psí hlavy, Vyhlídka et les rochers près de Bělá pod Pradědem. À la frontière polonaise suivent les monts Rychleby avec Smrčník, Sedm skal, Smolný vrch (Venušiny misky), Vysoký kámen et Žulová.

Plus au sud se trouvent les collines de l'Oder et le Bas Jeseník (Kružberk, Bradlo, Dobřečov, Potštátské skály) et les environs de la Porte morave avec Helfštýn, Štramberk et Černotín/Hluzov. L'escalade traditionnelle avec équipement fixe et friends domine dans les Jeseníky et les monts Rychleby, l'escalade sportive sur murs verticaux et dalles dans les collines de l'Oder et autour de la Porte morave. Beaucoup de rochers sont en zones protégées – vérifier les restrictions, y compris les fermetures saisonnières pour la nidification, auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme et de l'administration de la zone protégée des Jeseníky avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Tchéquie, Moravie du Nord possède 2678 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 10. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Friends, Sport Climbing.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles de la commission locale s'appliquent : ne pas modifier le rocher ni les prises, ne pas grimper sur rocher mouillé, premières ascensions selon les principes de la ČHS.

4
Jehně
From the bench/platform along the prominent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3+
Beran
Up the prominent corner to the ledge and via the gully/channel to the left to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6
Beran
Ascend along the Veronika route and higher from the ledge to the right, up the wall with… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3-
Beran
Through the notch onto the overgrown platform/gangway and to the left into another notch.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Beran
Along the ledge to the bottom of the chimney and from the left onto the step. Up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6+
Beran
Ascend over the overhang into a chimney-like constriction and up it to the ledge. Via… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5+
Beran
From the right into the indentation (hourglass) and up five meters through it. To the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6-
Beran
Ascend to the right of the Cosmic Pillar and via cracks from the right into the corner.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Beran
Up the small wall to the grassy step and to the crack. Up the crack for 4 meters and onto… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Beran
Ascend along the Cosmic Pillar and then straight up the indentation to the left of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Beran
Via the wall from the left into the recess (hourglass) and through this onto the step … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Ovce
From the Black Chimney, traverse the wall to the right to the edge. Along this, later via… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4-
Ovce
Through the chimney under the arch (hourglass) and from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3+
Ovce
Via the wall to the ledge, from the left into the notch and through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Ovce
Into a prominent notch and along the edge (hourglass) over the overhang. Along the crack… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Ovce
Over the overhang into a prominent crack (2 hourglasses). Further via the wall with… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Ovce
Over the overhang to the shelf and via the wall with a sloping crack to another shelf,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Tulácká
Through the middle of the pillar (bolt) and right onto a grassy ledge or left onto a step… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Tulácká
Through the corner into the narrow chimney (hourglass) and up this under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Tulácká
Via the wall directly into the corner and from the right into the crack. Along it to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Tulácká
Via the varied wall into the corner (2 hourglasses), from the left over the slab (bolt).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Tulácká
Through the crack and via the wall to the right under the roof. Through the crack in the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Tulácká
Through the chimney under the overhang. From the left into the crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
Přeskok
Tulácká
By a traverse from Tulácká to the Great Pillar. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Velký pilíř
Same as the Gloomy Crack route, through the chimney under the overhang. Left along the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6-
Velký pilíř
Along the right edge of the pillar to a prominent crack and up this under the overhang … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Velký pilíř
From the penultimate bolt of the "Malé Jorasses" route in the roofs to the left (bolt)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Velký pilíř
Via the wall to the ledge (hourglass) and right under the overhang (hourglass). Via the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Kovadlina
Through the overhanging wall (hourglass) into the corner (hourglass) and under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
5
Velký pilíř
Along the left edge of the pillar (hourglass) along cracks to the gangway. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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