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Grimper à Severní prostor

83 voies
9 domaines
2–11 notes

Faisant partie de Bořeň, Severní prostor possède 83 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 11. Explorez ses 9 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Règles

The permit applies to sport climbing. It does not apply to bouldering, drytooling, slackline and highline. - access only via hiking trails or marked access paths - a detailed description of the paths is in a measure of general nature - report bird nesting to the rock manager - climbing only in daylight - prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of rocks - prohibition of using protection that damages the rock - prohibition of using winter climbing equipment - prohibition of rappelling using trees and bushes, prohibition of interfering with vegetation and loosening stones - prohibition of first ascents without the consent of the rock manager, who will negotiate consent with the nature protection body OVK: - prohibition of creating routes from above without prior OVK consent - prohibition of using rocks and summit books for commercial purposes; any intention must be consulted with the manager and OVK

Nature protection: Permanent climbing ban in the Northern Chimney, without restrictions on the Bishop's Seat-North and the right part of the Meridian Pillar, other rocks in the Northern area permitted from July 1 to January 31. Nature Protection Document: NPR Bořeň - OOP 2021-2030, OP authority PLA Czech Central Highlands

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

Parking

50.52984, 13.75883

2
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Along the short upland side of the pillar. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Through a small cave under the overhang, up it (rappelling ring) along grassy steps to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Severní stěna
Left of Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret) via a crack over a slab (40 m) under an overhang. To… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
The start is between "Radova variant" and "Velikonoční". Higher up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-
Severní stěna
Up the pillar via 3 rings and 3 bolts (7/7+ RP) to the belay. To the right above the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
From the lower ramp, a clearly visible pillar rises, from whose left crack a birch tree… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
The route leads along the same pillar as "Velikonoční" (Easter), but from the right side.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
To the right of the "Unknown" indentation via a crack (approx. 25 m) and then a dihedral… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7-
Severní stěna
Via the corner crack between "Špalková" and "Velikonoční" up to the height of the pulpit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
To the pulpit as "Špalková" or "Radova variant". From the pulpit, the route continues… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
Via a prominent corner roughly in the middle of the (North) face to the pulpit. From… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
In the left part of the wall, traverse through a corner and a small chimney around a tree… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
To the right of the "Bílinský Hanger", above the ramp, there is a white overhanging… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
Right below the hollow (rock basins) of previous routes, via a crack to a platform … Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
Where the North Pillar meets the North Face, there are approximately 50m high rock… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Severní stěna
Via the right crack of the rock hollows over an overhang into the window in the North… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
5+
Severní pilíř
Start from the right side of the pillar, via a crack to the balcony (belay station). Then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6-
Severní pilíř
The first major rise of the North Pillar is cut by two cracks. The start is where the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Severní pilíř
About 10m below the North Chimney entrance, on the left side of the North Pillar, follow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4+
Severní komín
Up the chimney to the platform (formerly VK). Further over small walls and grassy ledges… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Biskupská stolice - sever
Via the crack on the edge of the (S) and (Z) walls to its end. Then to the ridge and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
4
Biskupská stolice - sever
Via the "Sunday" route to the first small platform (bolt). 2 m straight through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Biskupská stolice - sever
To the right of the N route "Sunday", via a crack over the rock and 2 bolts to the shelf… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Biskupská stolice - sever
Through the corner depression from the right side of the small tower under the overhang… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Up the chimney, later to the right and up the pillar wall to the top of the small tower. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
From the first stance of "Středová" (Central) T down into the valley wall and further up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6+
Biskupská stolice - sever
A few meters on the "Pope's Route". Further up the wall to the left onto a detached block… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Up the crack-chimney, which separates the small tower on its left side, over the wedged… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Along the (NW) edge, later up the wall to a ledge (3 bolts). The top is brittle. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
V. Skokan, Central wall of the flat pillar, left of the "Středová" (Central) corner. In… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow

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