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Faisant partie de Drábské světničky, Stařena possède 9 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 5 à 7+/8-. Les itinéraires sont répertoriés ci-dessous avec des notes de qualité, de style et de communauté.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Laid wall.

Règles

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques – uniquement l'équipement fixe et les protections textiles (sangles, nœuds).
  • On grimpe uniquement du bas et sur rocher sec.
  • Cordées de 5 grimpeurs au maximum.
  • Rappel uniquement sur ancrages fixes.
  • Accès aux rochers uniquement par les chemins publics et balisés.
  • Ne pas abîmer le rocher ni la végétation, ne pas déranger les oiseaux nicheurs, limiter le bruit.
  • Les premières ascensions nécessitent en général une autorisation préalable.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

5+
Stařena
Up the dihedral to the slanting ledge, along it to the right and up the center of the…
7-/7
Stařena
From the 1st ring of the Gingerbread House route, directly up the wall (hourglasses) into… Rock Climbing
6
Stařena
Up the V-edge to the summit.
6
Stařena
Along the N edge to the shelf, right into the valley wall and diagonally right to the 1st…
7+/8-
Stařena
Up the center of the plateau wall over a ring to the summit.
6+/7-
Stařena
Along the edge directly to the 1st ring.
Přeskok
Stařena
From Tučñák (Penguin). Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
6
Stařena
Up the center of the wall over two rings to the 1st ring of the NE wall.
5
Stařena
From the block, step across into the wall, traverse right into the crack and up it to the…

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