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Grimper à Svatošské skály

120 voies
11 domaines
3–8+/9- notes

Svatošské skály, dans la vallée de l'Ohře, est la plus grande zone du groupe Karlovarsko – 120 voies sur 11 rochers, cotations 3 à 9-. Zámek et Muzikanti sont les plus fournis, suivis de Nevěsta s ženichem, Tchýně, Svědkové et Tchán. Escalade surtout traditionnelle sur friends, avec relais fixes sur certaines voies.

Faisant partie de Région de Karlovy Vary, Svatošské skály possède 120 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 3 à 8+/9-. Explorez ses 11 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Friends, Fixed belay, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles de la commission locale s'appliquent : ne pas modifier le rocher ni les prises, ne pas grimper sur rocher mouillé, premières ascensions selon les principes de la ČHS.

Parking

50.20867, 12.81584

5
Páter
To the right of Stretzovka, up a narrow chimney to the balcony, from there via the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Páter
Up the right edge of the narrow chimney of the Sokolíkova route to its end. Now slightly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Páter
Through the gully to the saddle and from the right onto the block and along the SW edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Páter
Immediately to the right of the Stretzovka chimney, along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7-
Nevěsta s ženichem
(From Šádek's piton) directly up the edge. Rock Climbing Friends
6-
Nevěsta s ženichem
Cracks of the SE wall. Approach via the gully to the overhang, from the right (piton) up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Nevěsta s ženichem
Via the Ohří route to the 1st ring, traverse to Gotická. From Gotická, a strenuous… Rock Climbing Friends
6
Nevěsta s ženichem
From the fore-summit up the NE wall (ring) and right to the N edge (piton). Then slightly… Rock Climbing Friends
5
Nevěsta s ženichem
Approach to Buhlova hrana directly from the base of the tower via an overhanging, brittle… Rock Climbing Friends
4
Nevěsta s ženichem
Traverse the NE wall from the fore-summit to the E edge to a small balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing Friends
3
Tchán
Through a depression in the wall of the outer massif to the balcony, then over a detached… Rock Climbing
5
Tchán
To the balcony from the left via a corner/groove. Rock Climbing
4
Tchán
Approach at the lowest point of the S pillar via two cracks upwards (ring), traverse… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Svědkové
Up the right part of the wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Svědkové
Up the pillar in the middle of the southeast wall of Svědkové (Witnesses). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Svědkové
Up the overhanging small wall diagonally left to the edge and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4
Svědkové
From the right into a small indentation, traverse left into the gully and straight up it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Svědkové
To the right of the corner, up cracks below the overhang (piton), then left into the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Svědkové
Along the ridge over all the summits of Svědkové (Witnesses). Start at Páter. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Nevěsta s ženichem
Along the edge to the left of the prominent chimney up to below the overhang (piton).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8+/9-
Nevěsta s ženichem
To the left of the Gotická route, up the wall to the last anchor. Rock Climbing
5
Nevěsta s ženichem
Up the prominent corner to the left of Gotická via 3 bolts to the balcony, from there… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Nevěsta s ženichem
Up the fractured SW wall slightly right to the S edge, traverse left (ring) and along a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nevěsta s ženichem
Overhang and wall between the Gotická and Ohří routes. Nice climbing to the tower over… Rock Climbing
8+
Nevěsta s ženichem
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+
Nevěsta s ženichem
Up the left half of the E wall using delicate holds to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Nevěsta s ženichem
From the fore-summit in the NW wall, over a ring along cracks to the balcony, then up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Svatoš
Directly up the wall (2 pitons) briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Nevěsta s ženichem
From the fore-summit along the edge to the piton of the Eastern Route and further along… Rock Climbing Friends
7
Nevěsta s ženichem
Approach in the W wall. To the fore-summit and up the wall to the right edge, along it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing

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