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Grimper à V Horách - Mydlářské kameny

32 voies
13 domaines
2–6+ notes

Les Mydlářské kameny, dans la partie V Horách des parois de Broumov, offrent plus de 30 voies plutôt faciles sur 13 tours – par exemple Rozeklaná, Ušák, Děvín, List, Zarostlá et Dvoják ; du 2 au 6+.

Faisant partie de Parois de Broumov, V Horách - Mydlářské kameny possède 32 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 6+. Explorez ses 13 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing.

Règles

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Escalade uniquement sur les rochers désignés – les rochers fermés sont signalés par des panneaux d'interdiction.
  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent (pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement).
  • Camping uniquement dans les campings.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Zarostlá
By opposition between the NW edge and the opposite rock, via an overhang and up the face… Rock Climbing
4
Zarostlá
Left part of the NE face about 2m and left along the edge of route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zarostlá
Via the overhanging SE face to the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Patník
From E with the aid of a small overhang to the SE edge and right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bota
From SE by a small crack and by standing up from a belay to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Patník
Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaná
Rock Climbing
6
Rozeklaná
Along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Rozeklaná
Up the E face to the SE edge and along it to the pre-summit. Via route no. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
2
Bota
From NE over rocks and by standing up to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaná
From E by chimney to the pre-summit and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ušák
By gully in the NE face to the plateau and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
List
Up the NE face to the SE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
List
Along the W edge to the balcony and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
List
From W by leap to the balcony and by route no. 2 to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dvoják
Rock Climbing
5
Dvoják
From the east along the edge (watch) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dvoják
From the fore-rock by SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Desátá
Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Desátá
From SE up the face to the plateau and right up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Mydlářský kámen
From NW by crack, gully and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Tnutá věžička
By crack to the right of the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Tnutá věžička
From N by crack to the plateau and by overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+
Ušák
Along the SW edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ušák
Rock Climbing
4
Ušák
Along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Lesnická
In the E face by a small overhang, standing from a belay to the SE edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
6
Čumákotorusek
Along the east edge to the summit (this is more like a boulder problem). Rock Climbing
3
Děvín
Reach out and traverse under the overhang to an overhanging wall, then diagonally right… Rock Climbing
3
Děvín
Over the overhang into the wall, then about 4m upwards, over several overhanging blocks… Rock Climbing

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