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Grimper à V Horách - U Vévody

23 voies
7 domaines
2–5+ notes

U Vévody, dans la partie V Horách des parois de Broumov, offre plus de 20 voies faciles sur sept tours – Podvečerní, Karkulka, Vévoda, Rozporák, Velký a malý trpaslík et Bobek. L'escalade est traditionnelle avec protections textiles ; du 2 au 5+.

Faisant partie de Parois de Broumov, V Horách - U Vévody possède 23 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 5+. Explorez ses 7 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall.

Règles

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Escalade uniquement sur les rochers désignés – les rochers fermés sont signalés par des panneaux d'interdiction.
  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent (pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement).
  • Camping uniquement dans les campings.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Karkulka
Right of the start of route no. 1 (from the detached block) along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Karkulka
Up the SW wall to the ring, traverse 3m right down to the SE ridge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Karkulka
From the ring diagonally right to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Karkulka
Along the W ridge directly to a small balcony, traverse right to the ring of route no. 1… Rock Climbing
5
Bobek
From E traverse right into the N small wall and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Bobek
Up a small wall to the summit gully and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vévoda
From N via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vévoda
Up the NE wall directly below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vévoda
From the cave on the valley side, via a corner and chimney under a wedged boulder … Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Vévoda
Up the NE wall left to the E ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rozporák
From NE via a chimney to the fore-summit, by overhang and along the N ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Rozporák
By jumping from the summit of the Great Dwarf. Rock Climbing
3
Rozporák
Via the chimney between the tower and the Great Dwarf to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Velký a malý trpaslík
From NE via a crack, higher up via a chimney between the towers and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Velký a malý trpaslík
From SW via the right or left crack, higher up via a chimney and route no. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
2
Velký a malý trpaslík
From the summit of Rozporák by overhang and building (up) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podvečerní
From SW via a chimney and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podvečerní
Along the plateau (N) ridge to the plateau and via route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Podvečerní
Left of route no. 4 up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podvečerní
Left of route no. 2 via a crack to the plateau and via route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podvečerní
Via the plateau chimney to the plateau and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Podvečerní
Rock Climbing
3
Žlabajs
From W via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing

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