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Faisant partie de Ostrov - 2 - východní část, Velká ostrovská stěna possède 28 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 3 à 9/9+. Les itinéraires sont répertoriés ci-dessous avec des notes de qualité, de style et de communauté.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall.

Règles

OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80252, 14.04714

4-
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the pillar's face into the hole to the right to the crack. Up to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velká ostrovská stěna
By the north edge to a small platform and a crack to a ledge. Traverse right and chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
Along the right edge (bolt) into the crack and by it to a small balcony. To the left by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká ostrovská stěna
Following the 'Pillar Route' to under the overhang. Over it with difficulty to a ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Velká ostrovská stěna
By the face over a small ledge and ring (added later) to a ledge to the large slings of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Velká ostrovská stěna
By a corner in the right part of the face, later by a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velká ostrovská stěna
To the left of the 'Bat' route by the edge to a balcony and to the right. By a notch to… Rock Climbing
5+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the face of the right pillar to the ring. By the face at the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velká ostrovská stěna
By the left smooth edge of the pillar to a platform (slings). By a crack to the top of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Following the 'Obesity is a Threat' route to the 1st ring, from the ring by the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the face between the Koutova and Ukradena routes to a ledge. By the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block under the face into the hole and by the face to the ring. Briefly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the valley face to the 1st ring. Diagonally right to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Velká ostrovská stěna
To the right of the start of the 'Roman Baths' route. Using a crack and the face over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká ostrovská stěna
Start as for the "Obesity No Longer a Threat" route. From the block straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block in the SW face diagonally left to the 1st ring. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block in the SW face Diagonally right, traverse left (slings) under the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the 1st bolt of the "Roman Baths" route directly over the BH to the 3rd bolt of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the NW face to a horizontal hole. Right behind the edge and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
To the left of the Left Valley Edge, by the face over the hole directly to the bolt. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the valley face to the ring. By the face and on the right by small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
In the left part of the valley face to the ring. Right into the chimney and up it, and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
Following the 'Sokolík' route up to the SW face. Over the overhang and by a notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
By crack in the NE face to the ledge with the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the gully to the right on the south edge (hourglass). By the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the corner in the NE face, using the crack and stemming over two overhangs to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the gully of the east face directly over 1 bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the NW face to a horizontal hole. By a crack and the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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