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Grimper à Velká plošina Stěn - U Jitřenky

22 voies
7 domaines
2–7- notes

U Jitřenky, sur la Velká plošina Stěn des parois de Broumov, offre plus de 20 voies sur sept tours – Martínkovické věže, Kamínky, Monika, Večernice, Petruška, Jitřenka et Blázinec. L'escalade est traditionnelle avec protections textiles et, par endroits, anneaux ; du 2 au 7-.

Faisant partie de Parois de Broumov, Velká plošina Stěn - U Jitřenky possède 22 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 7-. Explorez ses 7 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay.

Règles

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Nature protection: climbing is not allowed. Nature Protection Document: Public notice 2018, Map 1, Map 2, OP CHKO Broumovsko authority.

  • Escalade uniquement sur les rochers désignés – les rochers fermés sont signalés par des panneaux d'interdiction.
  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent (pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement).
  • Camping uniquement dans les campings.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Martínkovické věže 6 voies Kamínky 5 voies Monika 5 voies Večernice 2 voies Petruška 2 voies Jitřenka 1 voie Blázinec 1 voie
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7-
Večernice
From NE by crack and small chimney to the sub-summit plateau. Traverse right into the… Rock Climbing
5
Večernice
By path No. 1 to the sub-summit plateau. Left by overhang to the ring and traverse by… Rock Climbing
2
Blázinec
From the N by crack onto the pillar and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jitřenka
From the NE by crack and small chimney to the saddle. To the right by a small wall onto a… Rock Climbing
4
Petruška
From W fore-rock traverse left into the valley wall. By wall along the quartz nodules to… Rock Climbing
2
Monika
From N through passage and small chimneys below the tower to the start. By chimney to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Monika
From NW by jump, crack and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Monika
By path No. 1 on Martinkovické towers between the summits and traverse right to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Petruška
From W fore-rock directly by wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Monika
From S by chimney into the widening, descent to the boulders and right to the edge of… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Martínkovické věže
By path No. 5 to Monika up to the small platform in the chimney. By chimney for 2m and… Rock Climbing
3
Martínkovické věže
Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Monika
From SW by jump into the chimney to a small platform. By chimney to the plateau and by… Rock Climbing
2
Martínkovické věže
SE by chimney between the summits and by wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kamínky
Along the W edge (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Martínkovické věže
From Monika's plateau by traverse/overhang and wall to the balcony (sling). To the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamínky
From the W (in the S part of the rock cluster) by chimney to the right onto a small… Rock Climbing
4
Martínkovické věže
By the SE wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Martínkovické věže
From the SW fore-rock by stepping over the gorge to the ledge. By the wall (1st bolt) to… Rock Climbing
3
Kamínky
From the NW by corner chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kamínky
From the W (from the gorge between the tower and Petruška) by the wall over the knobs and… Rock Climbing
4
Kamínky
From the S (between the tower and the pillar) by chimney onto the pillar. To the right by… Rock Climbing

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