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Grimper à Vysoká Lípa

282 voies
45 domaines
2–10-/10 notes

Vysoká Lípa est un secteur du parc national de la Suisse bohémienne, avec plus de 280 voies sur 45 tours de grès. Le château rocheux de Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad) compte le plus de voies, puis Tunelová věž, Dlouhá stěna, Kniha, Loupežník, Rysí věž, Bohatý mlynář et Jizerská věž. La protection est traditionnelle – anneaux et protections textiles, voies souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10-/10.

Faisant partie de 9. PN de la Suisse bohémienne, Vysoká Lípa possède 282 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 45 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Route in shadow.

Règles

Dans le parc national, on ne grimpe que sur les rochers autorisés.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Černá lebka
Up the wall along the left valley edge and right into the hole. Directly up the wall via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Černá lebka
From the block in the plateau wall by aid and by the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Bohatý mlynář
As route b) up to the 2nd ring (without both aid placements). Diagonally left into the… Rock Climbing
5
Měšec
By the edge (ring) to a small ledge and (with aid) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Měšec
Up the plateau wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Měšec
By the NE edge and (with aid) to the ring, then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Upír
Descend into the saddle via the gully and chimney from the massif. From the balcony in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bohatý mlynář
Along the plateau edge over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bohatý mlynář
Left of route a) to the balcony (ring). Ascend via climbing and wall to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Bohatý mlynář
Briefly along the SW edge and (by climbing) to the 1st ring. Above the ring (by building)… Rock Climbing
6-
Bohatý mlynář
By opposition between the tower and the massif, then via cracks in the massif to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Bohatý mlynář
To the right on the North wall via an overhanging pillar to the ledge and left into the… Rock Climbing
5+
Bohatý mlynář
Along the NW edge of the massif, descend right to the ledge, then ascend from the… Rock Climbing
5
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
Completely to the right on the South wall, via the crack in the corner directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
From the W via the chimney, higher up like the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bohatý mlynář
Via the crack in the valley wall to the ledge and right to the ring. Via the crack, gully… Rock Climbing
5+
Bohatý mlynář
At the start of route a), diagonally left to the platform and then left along it to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
In the middle of the South wall, via the widening crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
Via a narrow chimney in the middle of the North wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
To the left on the North wall along the cracks, higher up via the chimney to the ledge of… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
From the saddle via the right chimney to the pillar and diagonally left up the wall (or… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
Start 2m left of the "Old Route" via the chimney to the first summit and step over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
From the NE edge via a wide falcon crack to the ledge and to the right via a wide crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Věž bratří Nehasilových
To the right on the plateau wall, diagonally right up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Věž bratří Nehasilových
To the left on the valley wall, ascend the wall diagonally right into the crack, and… Rock Climbing
6
Věž bratří Nehasilových
To the right on the W wall, ascend the wall into a horizontal iron-rich notch, then long… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věž bratří Nehasilových
Start left of "Dáda's Route" via the wall (below the rappel point) directly through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž bratří Nehasilových
From E, transition from the block into the wall and then to the ledge. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing
6-
Zelený Jindřich
From the edge over 2 rings directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Zelený Jindřich
To the right of the Old Route, ascend the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing

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