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Mix & technical climbing in 11. Mordor

2 routes
2 areas

Mordor on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 180 routes – most on Malý ďábel, with more on Mistr, Ďáblova stěna, Věž Jílového potoka, Brusinková věž and Černý Petr. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor has 2 routes documented on climbing.place. Explore its 2 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

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Černý Petr
Completely to the right in the smooth, iron-rich wall. Projects reserved until May 27,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
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Věž Jílového potoka
Wall between Genocide and Side Entrance. Reserved until 19 September 2025. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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