While the normal route of Ama Dablam was busy with commercial traffic this season, two of the world’s leading alpinists were quietly crafting a masterpiece on the other side of the mountain. Ukrainian climbers Mykyta Balabanov and Mykhailo Fomin have successfully established a significant new route on the rarely climbed West Face of Ama Dablam (6,812m).
The duo, already legendary for their Piolet d'Or-winning ascent of Annapurna III, climbed the route in pure alpine style, naming it "Chegi" in honor of a friend recently fallen in the war in Ukraine.
The Pivot from Makalu
The ascent was born out of improvisation. Balabanov and Fomin had originally arrived in the Khumbu region with sights set on a new line on Makalu. However, heavy snowstorms and unstable conditions on the 8,000er forced them to abandon their primary objective.
Unwilling to return home empty-handed, they shifted their focus to Ama Dablam. Initially considering the South Face, they found it too dry and dangerous. Their attention turned to the West Face, a formidable wall that has seen very few ascents compared to the popular Southwest Ridge.
The Route: "Chegi"
The new line follows a prominent rib on the left side of the West Face. The climbers described the terrain as complex and engaging, requiring a mix of technical rock and ice climbing.
Technical Specs:
- Route Name: Chegi
- Grade: ED (Extremement Difficile), M5, AI4, 80°
- Vertical Gain: 1,600m
- Dates: Late October – Summit on November 1, 2024
The route climbs 1,600 meters of independent terrain up to the shoulder at roughly 6,250m. From there, it joins the 2001 British Route (Northwest Ridge) to the summit. The team noted that the climbing involved navigating tricky mixed terrain and loose snow, particularly on the upper sections.
Style Matters
True to their reputation, Balabanov and Fomin completed the climb in a single-push alpine style. They carried everything they needed on their backs, used no fixed ropes, and employed no high-altitude porters.
"It was a classic adventure on a beautiful mountain. We were alone on the face, managing the risk and the route finding ourselves. This is the alpinism we love."
They summited on November 1, 2024, before descending via the normal route, navigating through the fixed lines and commercial teams of the Southwest Ridge.
A Tribute to a Fallen Friend
The route name, Chegi, carries heavy emotional weight. It is the nickname of a close friend of the climbers who was killed on the front lines in Ukraine shortly before their summit push. The ascent stands not only as a feat of athleticism but as a memorial to resilience amidst tragedy.
