In a stunning achievement that pushes the boundaries of traditional climbing, American climber Connor Herson has established what is likely the physically hardest trad route in the world. The route, named Drifter’s Escape, is located on the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, British Columbia.
Herson, a 22-year-old Stanford student known for his versatility on both big walls and sport crags, sent the line on July 14, 2025, after two seasons of effort. The news was kept under wraps until February 2026 to coincide with an upcoming film release.
Route Specs at a Glance
| Route Name | Drifter's Escape |
|---|---|
| Location | Stawamus Chief, Squamish, BC |
| Proposed Grade | 5.15a (9a+) |
| Style | Traditional (Gear) |
| Crux | V11 boulder problem involving a dynamic "pogo" move |
The Climb: 5.15a on Gear?
Drifter's Escape is a striking line of granite seams. While the route is protected primarily by gear, it does feature two bolts at the start which protect an initial V7 boulder problem. Herson noted that these bolts were existing remnants from an old aid line, and he chose to leave them rather than chop them or take a dangerous ground fall.
The meat of the route, however, is pure trad difficulty. The line features:
- Technical Precision: Insecure 5.13 laybacking on tension-dependent feet.
- The Crux: A V11 boulder problem protected by a 0.1/0.2 offset cam, requiring a unique "pogo" move to generate momentum.
- The Finish: A pumpy, technical upper section leading to a mental mantel finish.
— Connor Herson
Is it the World's Hardest?
If the grade of 5.15a (9a+) holds, Drifter's Escape would sit at the very top of the traditional climbing hierarchy. For context:
- Bon Voyage (France): James Pearson's route, graded E12 (approx 9a), is considered one of the hardest.
- Tribe (Italy): Jacopo Larcher's ungraded testpiece is often speculated to be in the 9a/9a+ range.
- Empath (USA): Herson himself climbed this 5.14d/5.15a sport route on gear in 2022.
Herson has been humble about the "hardest" label, emphasizing the quality of the movement over the grade. However, given his resume—which includes freeing The Nose in a day and repeats of Cobra Crack and Magic Line—his proposal of 5.15a carries significant weight.