🧗‍♀️ Camilla Moroni Makes History on Histoire sans Fin

Italian climber Camilla Moroni has etched her name into alpine climbing lore by becoming the first woman to free climb the 200-meter trad route Histoire sans Fin (8b+) on Switzerland’s Petit Clocher du Portalet.

🏞️ The Route

  • Histoire sans Fin is a granite multi-pitch masterpiece, first free-climbed in 2021 by Seb Berthe and Siebe Vanhee.

  • It features eight pitches, with difficulties ranging from 7c to 8b+, including a legendary 45-meter crack and a technical arête

  • The climb is revered for its aesthetics and complexity, often called one of Europe’s finest granite lines.

🧗‍♀️ Camilla’s Ascent

  • Moroni teamed up with fellow Italian climber Pietro Vidi, arriving at the base on July 1st and working the route over several stormy days.

  • After refining their beta, they launched a lead attempt on July 12th.

  • Pietro climbed every pitch cleanly on lead, while Camilla battled through multiple falls on the crux pitches before sending them

💪 Key Moments

  • She struggled on the pitch 3 traverse (7c) and fell three times on pitch 4 (8b+), which features a boulder problem on an arête.

  • Her height made some moves tricky, requiring creative beta like a toe catch to reach holds.

  • She sent pitch 6 (8b) on her second try and flashed pitch 7 (8a+), a delicate slab requiring laser focus.

🧠 Mindset & Gear

  • Coming off a competition season and Olympic training, Camilla hadn’t worn a harness in six months.

  • She switched into “competition mode” to push through mental and physical fatigue.

  • She adapted her footwear mid-route, alternating between Instinct VS and Vapor S for better edging on tiny granite footholds.

🎙️ Her Words

“I wasn’t feeling confident two days before the final push... but after a rest day, I switched my mindset into competition mode. The last pitch doesn’t require much power, just focus and calm. I sent it on my first go, and soon after, we were at the top. What a satisfying feeling!”

This ascent not only showcases Camilla’s grit and adaptability but also marks a milestone for women in trad climbing.