Nicolai Užnik Opens "Full Gem" (V16 / 8C+) in Switzerland

Key Details of the Ascent

About the Boulder Problem

• The Line: Full Gem is the much harder sit-start version of Forgotten Gem (V15 / 8C), a climb originally established by Kim Marschner in February 2022.
• The Style: The problem ascends a stunning, sheer face etched with tiny edges that demand immense finger strength on heinous, razor-thin crimps.
• The Project Process: Užnik sent the stand-start (Forgotten Gem) in January 2025 on his second go, barely missing the flash. He immediately started projecting the sit-start during that same session. It took him roughly a year to connect the entire sequence.
• The Crux: According to Užnik, the sit-start adds a couple of relatively basic but incredibly hard, powerful moves that make the entire line significantly more difficult to link from the ground.

"What a day out in Chironico, finally wrapping up this project. I did Forgotten Gem almost exactly a year ago, and in the same session started working on the sit start... Such a special moment when everything clicked!" — Nicolai Užnik via Instagram

Context & Significance

• His Third V16: This marks Užnik's third V16/8C+ ascent, building on his previous successes with the first post-breakage ascent of Emotional Landscapes and a send of Will Bosi's Brain Rot.
• Elite Tier: Užnik is cementing his legacy as one of the top boulderers in the world. In early 2025, he established his first V17/9A boulder, Mount Doom, in Maltatal, Austria.
• Media: Užnik documented the send and recently released the uncut footage of the first ascent on his personal YouTube channel.