A new alpine masterpiece has emerged in the Peruvian Andes. From July 13–15, 2025, legendary climbers Dani Arnold, Alexander Huber, and Simon Gietl completed the first ascent of Kolibri, a bold new route on the east face of Jirishanca (6,094 m) in the Cordillera Huayhuash.
🧭 Route Overview
📏 Length: 1,030 meters over 31 pitches
🧗♂️ Difficulty: UIAA grade 8 and aid up to A2
🧱 Rock: Compact, grippy high-altitude limestone
🧤 Protection: Sparse—mostly mobile gear with 8mm bolts at belays
The line threads between the historic French and Italian routes, weaving through slabby, overhanging terrain and technical crack systems. The team bivouacked twice on the wall before topping out on the east summit (6,028 m). They chose not to continue to the main summit due to unstable snow conditions—a decision rooted in safety and experience.
🌄 The Spirit of “Kolibri”
Named after the Quechua word for “hummingbird,” Kolibri pays homage to Jirishanca’s nickname: the “Icy Hummingbird’s Beak.” The trio described the climb as:
“A beautiful and logical line in the best rock... The teamwork was perfect—it was simply a great success.”
🧠 What Makes It Special
Combines technical wall climbing, classic alpine crack systems, and serious objective hazards
Demands mental resilience, route-finding intuition, and trust in your team
Climbed in near-perfect conditions, with dry rock and minimal icefall
This ascent adds another jewel to the trio’s already glittering alpine resumes
