Just months after his ascent of Mount Doom, Austrian climbing legend Jakob Schubert has done it again. In a stunning display of power and versatility, Schubert has claimed a rare repeat of Sean Bailey’s Shaolin (9A/V17) in Red Rocks, Nevada. This marks his third boulder of the grade, cementing his status as one of the most well-rounded climbers in history.
🧗 Route Profile: Shaolin
- Grade: 9A (V17)
- Location: First Creek Canyon, Red Rocks (USA)
- First Ascent: Sean Bailey (2024)
- Style: Sandstone, short, maximum power
- Key Features: Two distinct, incredibly low-percentage crux moves.
The Ascent: A Battle of Skin and Mind
Unlike his previous 9A sends—Alphane and Mount Doom—which are long, endurance-heavy granite lines, Shaolin is a different beast entirely. It is a short, punchy sandstone testpiece defined by two massive, complex moves.
Schubert described the process as a mental and physical rollercoaster. The sandstone texture took a toll on his skin, forcing him to take extended rest days and even retreat to Arizona for some lead climbing to let his fingertips heal.
"I fell in love immediately ;-) truly one of the best boulders in the world. A proud aesthetic bloc, perfect landing, obvious start, amazing holds and not just one but two of the coolest moves I've ever done."
— Jakob Schubert
The send didn't come easily. Schubert revealed that a small hold broke during his attempts, adding a layer of physical difficulty but, more significantly, a mental hurdle. He had to re-learn micro-beta he had already dialed. The successful top-out finally came on the penultimate day of his trip, adding a dramatic finish to his American tour.
The "Side Quest": Styling The Nest (8C/V15)
As if sending one of the world's hardest boulders wasn't enough, Schubert managed to tick a world-class classic while "resting" for his main project.
While managing his split tips for Shaolin, he made the hike to Daniel Woods' legendary line, The Nest (8C/V15). Reports indicate he made quick work of the line, flashing or sending it in very few tries, further proving his form is currently untouchable.
With the 2026 competition season on the horizon, Schubert looks stronger than ever. This trip to Red Rocks has served as a potent reminder that whether on a rope or a crash pad, Jakob Schubert remains a force of nature.