🧗‍♂️ Jonas Schild's Epic Free Ascent of Joy Division
In June 2025, Swiss climber Jonas Schild, alongside Thomas Schmid, completed a rare and impressive free ascent of "Joy Division"—an 800-meter granite multi-pitch rated 8b on Monte Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy. This route, established in 2004 by Simone Pedeferri, is considered one of Europe’s most demanding granite climbs, often compared to the legendary El Capitan in Yosemite.
🧱 The Route
Joy Division is a fusion of three existing lines, stitched together into a continuous challenge.
It features 20 pitches, with multiple cruxes rated up to 8b, demanding technical precision on less-than-vertical terrain.
Only a handful of climbers have completed it free, including James Pearson (2011) and Babsi Zangerl with Jacopo Larcher (2021).
⛺ The Ascent Strategy
Schild and Schmid spent three days on the wall, using a portaledge for overnight stays.
They climbed early in the morning to avoid the intense sun, which hits the wall until 2 p.m.
Schild led 14 of the 20 pitches, including all the hardest sections.
🔥 Key Moments
The first pitch, rated 8b, was dry and tackled on day one—Schild found a solution and climbed it cleanly.
On day two, they pushed through pitches 2–7, including another 8b crux on pitch 4.
The final difficult pitch (11th) was completed by Schild at 4 p.m., after a long lunch break and careful route inspection.
🏞️ A Climb to Remember
Schild described the experience as one of the most formative of his climbing career. With its sheer length, technical difficulty, and alpine exposure, Joy Division remains a crown jewel of European granite climbing
