French climber Jules Marchaland made the first ascent of King Kang in the Flatanger cave (Norway), proposing 9b+ / 5.15c — his first route at the grade.

The line is an old project that Adam Ondra pointed him toward. The crux is a huge dyno; Marchaland says that move gives the climb the feel of a one-move route. He only got two days on it last year while sick; this year about four more days were enough — even after spraining a big toe five days before the trip.

He hesitated on the grade; after talking it through with Ondra, 9b+ felt right: a short effort where a little pre-fatigue before the dyno changes everything.

On climbing.place: King Kang (Hanshelleren, Flatanger).

Sources: Gripped, Up-Climbing, Instagram @jules_marchaland (Sept 2026). Photo: Johan Nilsson / Up-Climbing.