Route Profile: Saute Aure et God Homme
Located on the Cascade de Saute Aure near the Col du Festre, this line adds a significant test piece to the Hautes-Alpes region. The route name is a playful pun on the biblical "Sodome et Gomorrhe," utilizing the existing name of the waterfall ("Saute Aure").
| Route Name | Saute Aure et God Homme |
| Location | Cascade de Saute Aure, Dévoluy Massif, Hautes-Alpes (France) |
| First Ascent Team | Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni, Raphael Olbrecht |
| Date | January 2026 |
| Grade | AI5, M11 |
| Length | 135m (Multi-pitch) |
Technical Breakdown
The route is characterized by its steep, athletic nature, requiring a full repertoire of modern winter climbing skills. At 135 meters in length, it presents a sustained challenge.
- The Crux (M11): The standout difficulty of the route is the dry-tooling crux. Graded M11, this section involves severe overhanging terrain where climbers must rely on gymnastic movement and technical tool placements on rock, often far steeper than vertical.
- The Ice (AI5): The "AI" (Alpine Ice) rating suggests the ice encountered is alpine in nature—likely steep, possibly thin or complex, requiring good judgment and solid technique. AI5 typically denotes sustained vertical sections (85°–90°) that demand high physical effort.
Context and Location
The Dévoluy massif is known for its limestone walls and "dolomitic" appearance, often providing spectacular but complex rock quality. The Cascade de Saute Aure is a known feature in the area (often visited by hikers in summer), but this ascent transforms it into a theater for elite winter alpinism.
This ascent highlights the continued progression of mixed climbing in the Southern French Alps, where climbers are increasingly seeking out lines that merge the physical intensity of sport climbing with traditional alpine hazards.
