The world of high-altitude climbing has been set ablaze this season by a series of audacious first ascents. Leading the charge is Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach, who recently completed a massive 750-metre variation on the North Face of the Aiguille de Triolet.

1. Triolet North Face: "You Didn’t Ask" (750m, M7+)

As part of his "Six Forgotten North Faces" project, Schüpbach—alongside Philippo Sala and Tom Livingstone—established a direct line through the formidable headwall of the Aiguille de Triolet (3,870m).

  • Grade: M7+, 80° snow/ice
  • Length: 750 metres of new/variation terrain
  • The Crux: Sustained, exposed mixed climbing with a "poor bivouac" right at the heart of the headwall.

Interestingly, the route saw a near-simultaneous second ascent the very same day by Amaury Fouillade, Olivier Kolly, and Philippe Bruley, proving that even "forgotten" faces can become the center of the climbing world in an instant.

Other Monumental First Ascents

Kaqur Kangri (6,859m) - Southwest Arête

In remote West Nepal, Americans Spencer Gray and Ryan Griffiths claimed the first ascent of this peak via a 1,670m line. The route is now ranked among the hardest in the region, featuring technical 5.10 A0 M7 WI5 terrain.

Yashkuk Sar (6,667m) - Tiger Lily Buttress

A 2,000m masterclass in the Batura Muztagh, Pakistan. Climbed by August Franzen, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler, the route (AI5+ M6 A0) included a "diagonal rappel" to bypass a collapsed snow mushroom—a reminder of the volatility of big-wall alpine climbing.