Goal: Control the nervous system on demand - before a hard attempt, at a rest hold, or after a scary fall.
Protocol (one breath cycle = 16s)
- Inhale through the nose - 4 seconds
- Hold - 4 seconds
- Exhale slowly - 4 seconds
- Hold empty - 4 seconds
- Reps: 10 cycles per set
- Sets: 3
- Rest between sets: 1 minute of normal breathing
When to use
- Before redpoint attempts to calm the pre-climb spike.
- At rests mid-route: even 3 cycles lowers heart rate noticeably.
- Daily practice makes it available under stress - train it like any other skill.