The central part of the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 210 routes on 16 towers and walls – the largest include Baldachýn, Malá and Velká bašta, Trůn, Zrcadlo and Letní rezidence. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings, glue-in bolts and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 3 to 9+.
Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 07. Centrální část has 211 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 9+. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.
Rules
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Baldachýn Malá bašta Velká bašta Trůn Zrcadlo Letní rezidence Titanic Pod Marínou Hektor Ledová stěna Minaret Apač Sluneční zahrada Nešvar Bufet Samotka
9/9+
Kouzelník Žito
In the left part of the valley wall over 7 bolts below the overhang (here possibility to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Korunovace
To the left of the route "Wizard Žito" along the edge over 6 bolts below the overhang,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Varianta proti proudu (Stará cesta)
From the west side, left, via a crack into the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
8/8+
Trůn bohů
Via the route "Against the Current" higher to the 5th and 6th bolts of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Král “Mimo”
Along the wall to the left of the route "ELA HAVANA" over 2 bolts onto the shelf and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sedím na polici
To the right of the route "Sedím na Polici" (Sitting on the Shelf) over 2 bolts onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Julča v akci
Along the edge higher up the sloping wall over 5 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tatíček Masaryk
Start via the route "Unsuccessful Route" after 10 m obliquely left into the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Blues mého života
To the right of the left lower chimney through the slabby wall along the blunt edge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Transatlantica
Middle of the lower wall over 4 BH and obliquely right (crossing Unsuccessful Route) into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Nepovedená cesta
Start in the right part of the wall through a 10m chimney, then obliquely left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Úryvky z koránu
Through the left chimney, later left along the pillar over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Chill Out
From the valley along the lowest left edge from the left over walls and further by a step… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Volání muezzina
Through the chimney of route "Uryvky koránu" (Fragments of the Quran) approx. 6 m and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Fly Emirates
In the right part of the massif, to the left of the corner and the route "MRAKOLAPKA" … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Achilova pata
Along the right lower edge to the ledge. Traverse left into the crack, up it to the edge… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Remix
To the right of the Path for Eliška, through the corner and the wall to the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Podzimní dárek teplejm Maorům
From the balcony below the SE wall to the right of Achilles' heel into the crack and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Cesta pro Elišku
Between the routes "Achilles' Heel" and "Motolice" (Fluke) up the wall over 6K to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hospoda
To the left of the route "Na prasáka" (Like a Pig) via a corner and crack. Left up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Prazdroj
Start in the left part of the wall. Over 4K to the overhang, over it from the right to… Rock Climbing
6
Varianta (Na prasáka)
From the ledge to the right via the small pinnacle to its end, slightly right about 3m up… Rock Climbing
6
Na prasáka
To the left of the route "Prazdroj" (Pilsner Urquell), along the edge up the wall over 4K… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Dolní varianta
From the 1st K along the edge and left up the wall to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Severní vítr - horní var
From the balcony, go right behind the edge to the crack and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Štípanec do prdele
From the corner to the right of the Northern Wind route, up a small wall over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Severská kombinace
As "Summit of the Glacier" to the 4th K, then diagonally right via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2