The central part of the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 210 routes on 16 towers and walls – the largest include Baldachýn, Malá and Velká bašta, Trůn, Zrcadlo and Letní rezidence. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings, glue-in bolts and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 3 to 9+.
Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 07. Centrální část has 211 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 9+. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.
Rules
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Baldachýn Malá bašta Velká bašta Trůn Zrcadlo Letní rezidence Titanic Pod Marínou Hektor Ledová stěna Minaret Apač Sluneční zahrada Nešvar Bufet Samotka
6+/7-
Severská kombinace
As "Summit of the Glacier" to the 4th K, then diagonally right via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Gabarrou
Middle of the valley wall over 3 K into the crack and via it to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Sněžný muž
Between the routes "Northern Wind" and "Gabarrou" along the depression, higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Doba ledová
In the left part of the valley wall to the fore-rock and along the edge over 9 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Bez převozníka
From the balcony of Ferryman's Wrath, traverse right over the overhang via BH and an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Pravobok
From the ledge of Ferryman's Wrath, continue directly along the right edge over 5 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Vrchol ledovce
In the left part of the wall over 3 K into the crack and via it to the 4th K. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
452° Fahrenheita
Middle of the valley wall to K. Left over the overhang to the 2nd K of "Ferryman's Wrath"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Převoznická zkratka
From the balcony of "Ferryman's Wrath" via a crack over the overhang and arbitrarily to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Přeražená hnáta
Left part of the wall over 3 K below the overhang. Above it and up the wall (2 K) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Převozníkův hněv
Right valley edge (K) into the ledge and traverse left to the 2nd K. Up the wall to the…
6+/7-
Vymáchané necky
From S via a corner to the fore-rock. Over the ledge via a corner and crack to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Tekutá modernita
To the left of the path "Vymáchané necky" (Rinsed Trough) via ribs and wall over 5 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Nevyšlapanou cestou
Left valley edge over K to the balcony and overhanging W wall over 4 BH to the 3rd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Cyklón
From the 3rd K of the route "Broken Bone" traverse left to the edge and along it over BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Kryštof Colombus
Pillar to the left of the Titanic. Through the middle of the slab over 8 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Tajná holka kapitána
On the left fore-rock from the left along the edge and wall over 4 K to the terrace for… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Cesta velkým L
Pillar to the left of the Titanic. Entry to the left of the Kryštof Columbus route,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Free The Beer !
In the NW face. Right of the Return of Friendship route, along the cracks slightly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mrtvý kosti
Right of the "Nervous Starts" route, by the crack to the ring, above it left and by the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Neptune's Hook
Start in the steep face of the pre-rock, up the wall (6 bolts) to the rappel. (see TOPO) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Loupači brambor jedou na sraz
Left of the Sexual Handbook route, up the wall over 3 bolts to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
You are my saver... Drink me!
Right of the Free the Beer! route, by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Návrat přátelství
Up the wall right of the "Dead Bones" route over 2 rings to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Tření není
In the right part of the steep wall, from the niche along the crack to the small balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Sexuální příručka
At the right lower edge of the gorge, over 4 rings to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Páternoster
In the left part of the steep wall, over 4 bolts to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Konexe
From the slope, left of the "Clean Shield" route, up the wall to the horizontal notch and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Stará stanová knecht
From the South, diagonally left and slightly upwards below the overhang. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
6-
Cesta mazáků
By the crack at the left edge in the SE face to the bolt, straight up and by chimney to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay