Ostroh Východního rohu on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 170 routes on 16 towers and walls – the largest include Hřebenová jehla, Ústecká věž, Východní roh, Porcelánová stěna, Rybářská bašta and Citadela. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10-/10.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 08. Ostroh Východního rohu has 173 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10-/10. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Hřebenová jehla Ústecká věž Východní roh Porcelánová stěna Rybářská bašta Citadela Barokní stěna Žába Tajemníkovy kouty Kyklop Česko x Sasko Orient Ratejna Podsvinče Hulicí salonek Železný Zekon
7/7+
Jak jsem potkal ryby
Up the route "When Eels Migrate" and traverse left to the 1st ring. Up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Zaoceánské bublinky
Right of the chimney between Eastern Corner and Fisherman's Bastion, up the corner crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Inside job
From Hulící's salon along the southern edge over 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Chimney n. v Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Pěnová varianta
Like Zaoceánské bublinky (Transoceanic Bubbles) to the 7th bolt, then straight up past 8… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Puk a vec
From the 1st ring of "Corrida", up the wall past 6 bolts to a large balcony. Freely to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Ave my
Start with a crack through the overhang, then up the wall and edge past 8 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Přímá hokejka
Up the crack in the S wall almost to its end, traverse left and up the "Hockey Sticks"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Hokejka
From the SE up the wall, or from the N into the gully on the S side of the tower, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Corrida
From the left to the SE edge and along it to the 1st K. Diagonally to the right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8-/8
Cesta do budoucnosti
Downhill edge over 7 BH to the 3rd K of the “Child of Time” route, along it over the 4th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10-/10
Zpřítomnění
From the 10th BH of the "Path to the Future" route, further along the wall over 2 new BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Přímá Corrida
From the large balcony on the right, an overhanging edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Hurá na západ
Right parts of the downhill wall (approx. 6 m from the right of the corner), wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Dětský den
To the right of the start of the “Child of Time” route, wall over 3 BH to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Dítě času
By a large corner in the downhill wall to the 1st K, over the overhang and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Velký třesk
S wall to a small crack and along it to a ledge. Traverse left to the 2nd K of the “Child… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Průduškový komín - Varianta
From K diagonally to the right, chimneying to a small balcony and inside the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Eldorádo
S wall along the right edge, then diagonally left to the 1st K. Breakaways to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Průduškový komín
From the NW, crack into the chimney between the tower and the massif. Chimneying to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Milky Way
By the “Eldorado” route to the 1st K. Left on the wall over 5 BH to the notch to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Ganja
Left of the large overhang to the 1st BH and corner to a balcony. Wall over 2 BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Vodní dýmka
Start like “Ganja” and wall over BH to the left onto the edge. Along it over 3 BH to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
Stará cesta
Along the edge of the massif, descend to the saddle, step onto the tower and up the steps… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Krátký kouř
Exit from the upper terrace. From the foreshore, from the right edge diagonally left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Trhlina v severní zdi
By a crack in the S wall diagonally to the right up to the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pětiminutovka
Right in the S wall by crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Šepot trávy
Just to the right of the corner between Kyklop and Hulicí's lounge, crack and wall over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Vyklop
From the S terrace, corner or chimney to the foreshore and, like the Pětiminutovka route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Zbyňkův rest
Downhill wall (BH, K, BH) and further over 7 K to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3