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Climbing at 1. Ostrov

3754 routes
4 areas
1–9+ grades

Ostrov is the rock area around the hamlet of the same name near Tisá, right on the Saxon border. It is made up of tall towers and massifs of hard sandstone, and with more than 3,700 routes on climbing.place it is one of the largest and most popular parts of the Elbe Sandstones. Together with Tisá and Rájec it forms a triangle where you can easily spend a full climbing week.

The climbing is classic, bold sandstone: cracks, chimneys and walls with sparse protection from rings and slings. You can stay right in Ostrov or in nearby Tisá.

Part of Elbe Sandstones, 1. Ostrov has 3754 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Ostrov - 2 - východní část 1367 routes Ostrov - 3 - jižní část 1246 routes Ostrov - 1 - severní část 654 routes Ostrov - 4 - západní část 487 routes
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4+
Ostrovská jehlička
Down by the edge to the ring. By rib and above the western edge.
6-
Ostrovská jehlička
Through the center of the overhanging wall via ring to the balcony (no bolts visible from…
4-
Ostrovská jehlička
Along the crack in the south face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ostrovská jehlička
By chimney with stemming to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Malá rohová věž
From the balcony on the uphill side, a crack near the E edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Malá rohová věž
From the massif from the NE. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá rohová věž
Crack in the middle of the east face, not graded. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá rohová věž
From the edge to the ledge. Higher up the wall, not graded. Rock Climbing
2+
Malá rohová věž
From the balcony on the uphill side, traverse to the NW face. Up that n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Malá rohová věž
Up the right uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Moravanka
On the right on the E face, a crack and up the face n. v. (K) Rock Climbing
5+
Moravanka
In the E face, a hand crack to an oblong hole to the belay. Up the face over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Moravanka
On the right in the face, a short crack upwards. Right along the crack, higher up the… Rock Climbing
5
Moravanka
Through the center of the valley face, a crack to a ledge and right by a small chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Moravanka
Up the left edge of the valley face using a small crack to a step and then like the… Rock Climbing
4+
Moravanka
To the left of the Zlatá střední cesta (Golden Middle Route) by a fine crack and left to… Rock Climbing
4-
Moravanka
Through the center of the W face using a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Bušek
Up the left valley edge over K n. t.
4-
Bušek
4-
Hračkárna
Through the center of the second pillar (counting from the left) over BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Světka
Through the center of the south face, an oblique crack to the ring. Overhanging step to a… Rock Climbing
5
Hračkárna
Up the left pillar over the BH n. t.
5
Světka
In the right part of the uphill face to a step to the ring. Up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Světka
In the right part of the valley face, a short crack and higher up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Světka
On the right in the north face from the bivouac, an overhang into a crack and left along… Rock Climbing
4-
Světka
From the saddle to the right onto a ledge and diagonally to the right (ring). Up the face… Rock Climbing
4+
Světka
On the right in the east face from the pointed block through a crack into a hole and up… Rock Climbing
4-
Světka
In the left part of the south face, over two shallow holes into a slabby face, then to… Rock Climbing
3
Světka
Through the center of the uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Světka
Overhanging start to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing

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