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Climbing at Ostrov - 1 - severní část

654 routes
56 areas
1–9/9+ grades

Part of 1. Ostrov, Ostrov - 1 - severní část has 654 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9/9+. Explore its 56 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80383, 14.04665

6-
Zalesněná věž
Right of the North Wall over the bolt to the ledge (ring of Ples upírů on the right).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Sfinga
To the left of the plateau chimney up the South face through the ring to the summit Rock Climbing
5+
Sfinga
To the right of the Old Route, up the wall along ledges to the 1st ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Sfinga
From Hrobka (Tomb) a jump to the summit of Sphinx. Rock Climbing
2+
Sfinga
Easily to the summit via the chimney behind the rib (from Hrobka - Tomb). Rock Climbing
4+
Sfinga
From the boulder in the southwest edge up the wall to the balcony, stand on the edge and… Rock Climbing
4+
Sfinga
To the right of the plateau chimney, up the wall to the ledge and along a faint edge to… Rock Climbing
2+
Sfinga
Between Hrobka (Tomb) and Sphinx to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Sfinga
Between Hrobka (Tomb) and Sphinx, on the right, up the overhanging wall to the edge.… Rock Climbing
5
Sfinga
From the south side of the balcony along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Sfinga
Through the right part of the wall from Hrobka (Tomb) and an oblique crack into the hole.… Rock Climbing
4+
Sfinga
From the bottom of the ravine via cracks to the edge of the slab and then as Old Route Rock Climbing
5+
Sfinga
From a large wedged boulder between Ober and Sphinx via wall to the ring. To a sloping… Rock Climbing
5+
Sfinga
By hand crack to the left of St. c. crossing over St. c.. Higher up by the edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Sfinga
From the ravine between the tower and Ober via the chimney to the platform (also from the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sfinga
From "Z stěnou" to the ring, partly overhanging wall (2 rings) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Obr
In the left part of the valley wall (to the right of the chimney), a hand crack below the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Obr
To the left in the valley side edge (1st ring) to the large balcony of the Northern Route…
5
Obr
Variant of the Northern Route below a large overhang. Crack, groove and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Obr
From the recess in the right part of the valley wall over a nose, through the wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
?
Obr
Via the "West Wall" route traverse to the left under the middle crack, between the "New… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Obr
To the left in the valley wall, a hand crack to its end (- variant "Border Route") and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Obr
Along the SW edge a few meters upwards, traverse to the left to a notch in the middle of…
7-/7
Obr
In the center of the S wall over a bolt and an overhang to a ring. Through a crack… Rock Climbing
6
Obr
Corner in the right part of the S wall to a ring. To the left onto the edge under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Obr
Through the center of the S wall over an appendage to a ring. Upwards via a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Obr
Along the SW edge to a platform to a ring. With a build-up and along the edge to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Obr
Start as the "Memorial to the Deceased" route to the balcony, higher through the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Obr
Through the wall to the right of the S edge to a balcony. Along the edge over a ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Obr
Through the SE wall to a wide band, to the right to a ring and a crack (protection behind…

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