Part of Ostrov - 1 - severní část, Hrad has 25 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 9. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4-
Vypouklá hrana
From the boulder near the E edge to a small balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Severovýchodní spára
From the start, traverse diagonally right into the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vaškův návrat
Right of the Normal route. Up the wall to a ledge with a ring, and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Psyché
From a standing start, climb into the NW face, traverse left to the edge and to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Dramatický obrat
In the downhill W face, left of the chimney, along the edge to the ring. Through a crack… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Padací most
Via the Dramatický obrat route 2m up and traverse to the center of the pillar. Through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zlatá střední cesta
Right of Via Karolina, up the wall past K. and through the center of the pillar to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Adršpašská direttisima
Up the wall along a fine crack, past the ring, into the Downhill route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Via Karolina
Up the wall between the Adršpašská direttisima route and a chimney to the ring, then into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Samostatná spára
Through the chimney, then along the W edge and later through a crack in the downhill wall. Rock Climbing
5
Lustrace
On the right in the downhill wall, initially using handholds, then a wider crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Údolní cesta
Downhill (NW) wall diagonally left to the start of a long crack, and up that to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Zahradní slavnost
Downhill route to a traverse. Gully to the 1st ring and to the balcony to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Západní pravá spára
In the right part of the downhill (NW) wall, into a widening crack to a platform.… Rock Climbing
5
Na vikárce
From the grassy area to the right of the S route, along the edge and a crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Bouřlivá cesta
Through a crack in the E face under the overhang to the ring, and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
9
Levitační varianta
Up the wall past the ring to the ring of the Pivo na pražský hrad route, and then to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pivo na Pražský hrad
Left of the start to the E edge, diagonally left across the wall to a ledge with a ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Východní hrana
Right from st. c. by stemming between the tower and the outcrop to the summit. Rock Climbing