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Climbing at 1. Ostrov

3754 routes
4 areas
1–9+ grades

Ostrov is the rock area around the hamlet of the same name near Tisá, right on the Saxon border. It is made up of tall towers and massifs of hard sandstone, and with more than 3,700 routes on climbing.place it is one of the largest and most popular parts of the Elbe Sandstones. Together with Tisá and Rájec it forms a triangle where you can easily spend a full climbing week.

The climbing is classic, bold sandstone: cracks, chimneys and walls with sparse protection from rings and slings. You can stay right in Ostrov or in nearby Tisá.

Part of Elbe Sandstones, 1. Ostrov has 3754 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Sokl
Through the center of the overhanging wall over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Palcát
Left part of the N wall, cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Palcát
From W overhanging edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Palcát
Through the center of the overhanging wall with a hand crack to its end and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Palcát
SE wall to the ring under the large overhang. Over the overhang to the summit.
5+
Palcát
Fall from the foreground rock to the W edge, diagonally to the right and double crack to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Kořenáč
Via the crack to the right of the start to the hole and traverse left to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Pučmeloun
Via the left downhill edge n. v. (no summit). Rock Climbing
5+
Pučmeloun
In the west wall along the crack to the ring. Up the wall n. v. (no summit). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pučmeloun
In the downhill path, via the crack and the wall n. v. (no summit). Rock Climbing
4+
Pučmeloun
From the overhang, via the overhanging crack, n. v. (no summit). Rock Climbing
5+
Pučmeloun
From the overhang between the massif via the overhanging wall (ring and hourglass) n. v. … Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Hastrman
From Osmička to the top of Hastrman. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hastrman
To the left of the Zimní céčko route, up the overhanging wall over 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Hastrman
Up the NE face to the ring. Over the overhang along the edge and another overhang to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Hastrman
Along the overhanging upper edge over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hastrman
From the right part of the valley (W) wall to the ring, upwards, traverse right under the… Rock Climbing
3
Hastrman
From the saddle to the small balcony, step to the left into the valley wall and to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hastrman
Start like the Valley Route. Up the crack and wall by the edge to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Prašivka
Center of the north face up the crack to the clock and up the rib to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Prašivka
Center of the S face past the bolt, as above. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prašivka
Center of the downhill (NW) face up the crack (clock) and right under the flake to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Prašivka
Right part of the downhill face past the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Prašivka
Up the uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kočička
In the center of the N face to a crack and up the face (ring) across a large balcony,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kočička
Center of the NE face into a crack and to a ring. Up the face across the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4+
Kočička
Wide crack up the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kočička
From the ring of the Berlení route to the ledge and right to the edge. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kočička
Up the face to the right of Normální cesta (Údolního koutu) to the ring. Then into the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kočička
From the corner to the ring, from the left over the overhang and up the south face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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