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Climbing at 1. Ostrov

3754 routes
4 areas
1–9+ grades

Ostrov is the rock area around the hamlet of the same name near Tisá, right on the Saxon border. It is made up of tall towers and massifs of hard sandstone, and with more than 3,700 routes on climbing.place it is one of the largest and most popular parts of the Elbe Sandstones. Together with Tisá and Rájec it forms a triangle where you can easily spend a full climbing week.

The climbing is classic, bold sandstone: cracks, chimneys and walls with sparse protection from rings and slings. You can stay right in Ostrov or in nearby Tisá.

Part of Elbe Sandstones, 1. Ostrov has 3754 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the right part of the valley wall, through a crack, later to the right by the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Hradba (Západní kámen)
From NE onto a ledge to a ring and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
By the left NE corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Rock Climbing
2+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
By the NE corner to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the left of St. c. by the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zelího masiv
By the valley crack to the top.
2
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the left part of the plateau wall, through a passage and to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Zelího masiv
By the right blunt valley edge to K. Directly to the top.
6
Zelího masiv
Start from the arrow, to the left of the valley crack by the wall to the top.
4+
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
By the blunt S edge over K to the top.
4-
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
2+
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
6
Zelího masiv
By the left valley edge to the top.
6+/7-
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
Start in the middle of the NE wall over a ring onto a ledge (belay). From there directly… Rock Climbing
5+
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
From the right, by the wall over the overhang to the ring, higher up to the left and by… Rock Climbing
4+
Viklan
From the base of the wall in the corner, briefly up and by the wall to K, then to the top.
2+
Viklan
SW edge to the top.
2+
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
By the wall under the rappel to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
5
Schůdná věž
St. c. a few meters up, right into the delicate overhanging dihedrals and onto the ledge.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Schůdná věž
Along the E edge to the ring. Up the edge into the hole (hourglass) and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Schůdná věž
From the NW to the foreland and up the fissure to the 1st ring. Up the wall past the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Schůdná věž
From the uphill side, traverse right into the wide crack and to the saddle between the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Schůdná věž
Up the wide crack in the middle of the SE wall, at the top as the Vosí spára, straight to… Rock Climbing
9+
Schůdná věž
From the 2nd ring of the Šlupkárna route, straight up past a bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
8-/8
Schůdná věž
C. Escalator past the 1st bolt to the right edge. Along the edge from the right (BH) and…
6-
Schůdná věž
Up the right part of the SE wall via a crack to the ring. Traverse right into the corner… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Schůdná věž
From the block of the left valley edge, via 2 bolts under the roof (sling). Rightwards…
8/8+
Schůdná věž
Up the SE wall, left of the Rozloučení route, via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing

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