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Climbing at 1. Ostrov

3754 routes
4 areas
1–9+ grades

Ostrov is the rock area around the hamlet of the same name near Tisá, right on the Saxon border. It is made up of tall towers and massifs of hard sandstone, and with more than 3,700 routes on climbing.place it is one of the largest and most popular parts of the Elbe Sandstones. Together with Tisá and Rájec it forms a triangle where you can easily spend a full climbing week.

The climbing is classic, bold sandstone: cracks, chimneys and walls with sparse protection from rings and slings. You can stay right in Ostrov or in nearby Tisá.

Part of Elbe Sandstones, 1. Ostrov has 3754 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Blázen
Up the SW edge to the ledge and along the edge past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Blázen
From the N, up the left edge over two belay points. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Blázen
In the W face, up the wide crack to the overgrown ledge. Up the wall past the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sedátko
In the left part of the E face, up the crack over the overhang to the ring. Left on the… Rock Climbing
4+
Sedátko
Via a crack and higher up the face near the edge to the west foreland. Via the West or… Rock Climbing
5
Sedátko
Over an overhang into the left crack in the N face. Via that to the balcony, traverse… Rock Climbing
6-
Sedátko
From the NE crack to the ring. Overhang from the left to the ledge (2nd dQ) and across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sedátko
To the left of the Kapsář route, up the wall to the ring and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sedátko
Via the right crack in the N face over an overhang to the balcony. Left and via a crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Sedátko
Right of the North Crack, via an overhanging face over 2 bolts to the ledge, into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sedátko
From the boulder to the west foreland, overcome the overhang into the face and along the… Rock Climbing
5
Želví věž
Rounded, overhanging at the start, via the SE edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Želví věž
Via the S route to the ledge, left and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sedátko
Jump from the NW edge of the Blazen summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Sedátko
Overhang from Blazen to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sedátko
Overhang as in the route Direct West route, short traverse to the left and via the recess… Rock Climbing
3
Sedátko
Via the wide chimney between Blazen and the tower to the platform in the S face. Via a… Rock Climbing
3
Želví věž
Via a wide crack in the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Želví věž
From the valley to the ledge to the crack and via that to the bolt. Right and along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Želví věž
Via a brittle face to a crack and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Balkánský pilíř
Via the western rounded edge over a bolt to the saddle and freely, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Balkánský pilíř
Through the center of the south face to a hole. Over the K face to a saddle and freely, n… Rock Climbing
4-
Želví věž
Via the S face and over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Balkánský pilíř
On the left in the west face to a bolt, then along a rounded edge up the face to a saddle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
?
Balkánský pilíř
Via the ferruginous corner to the terrace and then via steps, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Balkánský pilíř
Start at the boulder and along the east edge (terrace) n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Parlamentní masiv
In the west face, start into a sloping crack and over two bolts, n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Balkánský pilíř
Via a wide crack to the saddle and then up the face, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Balkánský pilíř
From the plateau side to the balcony.
3
Parlamentní masiv
On the right in the western wall (near the boulder), crack to the clock and to the summit. Rock Climbing

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