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Climbing at 10. Krkavčí ostroh

180 routes
19 areas
2–9+ grades

Krkavčí ostroh on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers 180 routes on 19 towers and walls – the largest include Klárka, Planeta, Krkavec, Poseidon, Kamzičí hrot and Netopýr. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2 to 9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 10. Krkavčí ostroh has 180 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 19 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.83057, 14.22891

4+
Sektor 113
In the left part of the massif by chimney and corner to the top. (SM) Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Planeta
Right in the valley wall from the corner diagonally right into the nest and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Planeta
From the plateau side left via delicate small features to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Planeta
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sektor 113
In the middle part of the massif right by crack to the balcony and higher by crack along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Planeta
In the East wall from the right edge diagonally left and then directly over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Planeta
By jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Planeta
Left of the route “Your Problem” over 4BH to the pre-summit. Optionally to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Planeta
Left of the route “Ležec” over 5BH to the pre-summit. Optionally to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Planeta
Left of the “Valley Route” by wall (K), higher by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Planeta
In the East wall from the fore-rock directly over 5 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Planeta
Right of the route “Your Problem” over 3 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Planeta
Up the wall over 2BH and right to the 4th BH of the route “Follow my steps”. By that to… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Planeta
Right of the route “Ležec” over BH into the route “Follow my steps”. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Planeta
Right South edge, later left by wall over 5 BH and hour glass to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Planeta
Through the chimney in the valley wall to the saddle and by a bridging chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Planeta
In the left part of the full wall to the 1st BH. From the left to the 2nd BH and up over… Rock Climbing
5+
Krkavčí stěna
Right edge to the ledge (left hour glass) and crack to the cornice. By wall (K), higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Krkavčí stěna
Center of the wall (1st K) to the ledge (hour glass) and from the right to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krkavčí stěna
On the right pillar along the edge via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Krkavčí stěna
On the left pillar along the edge to the shelf and left to K. Over the overhang and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Krkavčí stěna
Right of N route “Seven Ravens” along the edge of the pillar to the ledge, round edge (K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Panťáček
Through the middle of the W wall over 4 BH, higher up left to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Panťáček
Up the wall along the NW edge over 3 BH, higher up the wall (BH) and right to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čtverec
In the left part of the massif, up the wall to the 1st K. Directly up the wall, then… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sahula
From the start of "Underground" traverse right across the wall (4 BH) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Sahula
Via the corner between Mudrec and Sahula (bolt) to the balcony. Up the wall from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Sahula
Up the center of the valley wall over 5 bolts (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mudrc
Start in the right valley wall via an indistinct edge, then up the wall to the 1st ring … Rock Climbing
4+
Mudrc
Via the corner from SW to the top. Rock Climbing

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