U bivaku on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 70 routes – most on Havraní stěna, with more on Rolling stone, Strážce potoka, Bludný oblázek, Havraní jehla and Padlý anděl. Protection is rings and textile gear, on vertical walls and overhangs; grades from 2 to 9+.
Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 10b. U bivaku has 71 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 7 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Overhang, Vertical wall.
Rules
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
6+/7-
Hečepeče šlofinda
To the left on the valley (NW) side, from the ledge in the large corner. To the left of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Komáří cesta
Along the edge into the crack and up it to K. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Korvína
From the balcony in the large corner in the left part of the valley face, along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Dagobert Nordlicher
To the right of the Owl Crack, through a crack over the overhang into a ledge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Stará cesta
In the plateau face, to the left onto the ledge, then right through the indentation to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Rocky Deluxe
In the left part of the valley face, via the small chimney (sokolík) and the face over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Soví spára
6 m to the left of the "Mosquito Route", up a distinctive wide crack to its end at the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Mlha v údolí
To the right of the Valley Route, through the center of the face via 3 K to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Nová údolní cesta
To the left of the West edge, through the crack and face via K to the fore-rock, then… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
V jámě lvové
Through the small chimney (sokolík) in the West face under the overhang to K. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Údolní cesta
In the middle of the valley face, via the crack to the pre-summit. Jump to the ledge of… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zážitkovna
Through the chimney and the center of the South face via BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Západní cesta
Follow "Old Route" to the chimney. To the right, in the South face, to the ledge and hand… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jižní cesta
From the South, through the chimney between the tower and the massif to its end, traverse… Rock Climbing
4+
Stará cesta
From the West via the corner crack into the chimney between the tower and the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Velká voda
Via the 'Old Route' into the chimney. Through the middle of the wall by stemming to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Větrná stěna
Via the 'Old Route' into the chimney and through the middle of the North wall to K. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Velikonoční ostrov
In the right part of the valley wall, higher up to the right and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Danger
8+/9-
Skok mistrů skal
In the right part of the plateau wall, with a leap to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
9
Paměť kamene
In the left part of the valley wall along the gully via BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Zvědomění
Through the middle of the valley wall (2 BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Divná cesta
Via the East wall to the 'Klouzačka' platform and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
9+
Hřbitov prasátek
In the middle of the southwest wall via a crack to the 1st BH. Right to the 2nd BH and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Brexit
Left of Poslíčků from the plateau via the ferruginous wall directly to BH, slightly from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Poslíčci
Along the left valley edge to the 1st BH. Diagonally right to the 2nd BH and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Momentální nápad
Through the middle of the East wall to the ring and right to the summit. Rock Climbing