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Climbing at 10b. U bivaku

71 routes
7 areas
2–9+ grades

U bivaku on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 70 routes – most on Havraní stěna, with more on Rolling stone, Strážce potoka, Bludný oblázek, Havraní jehla and Padlý anděl. Protection is rings and textile gear, on vertical walls and overhangs; grades from 2 to 9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 10b. U bivaku has 71 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 7 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Overhang, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Rolling stone
To the right on the East wall over the overhang to the edge and via 'Klouzačka' to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Padlý anděl
In the right part of the valley wall via a crack to the end (BH) and from the right with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Rolling stone
Along the SE edge to K and left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rolling stone
From the ring of the 'Evelína' route directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rolling stone
To the right on the West wall up to K and along the smooth edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rolling stone
Via the West wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rolling stone
With the S wall diagonally left, then directly to the platform and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rolling stone
From the right to the NW edge and along it via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rolling stone
Along the SW edge (by positioning) to the ledge and along it right to K. Left via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Rolling stone
From the start of 'Klouzačka' via the wall to the right or through the middle to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Rolling stone
Through the middle of the South wall to K, traverse right and left of the 'Paradox' route… Rock Climbing

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