Nad Koňákem on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 200 routes on 24 towers – the largest include Březnová věž, Kulich, Nebeská brána, Hnojový dům, Nalepená věž and Strážce Jílového dolu. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 10-/10.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 12. Nad Koňákem has 198 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10-/10. Explore its 24 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Březnová věž Kulich Nebeská brána Hnojový dům Nalepená věž Strážce Jílového dolu Orlík Mount Žleb Ypsilon Milenci Mezikus Kryštof Rumunská stěna Nevěrník Brambulák Úderník Vinohrad Skřítek kameníček Urna Divoká stěna Bludný Holanďan Osvobozenec Bludný Belgičan Gambler
6
Fifinka nafintěná
As "Šulín ušulenej" to the ledge. Further left up the wall over 3 BH and right to the BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kandahar
To the right on the E side, via the corner to the crack and diagonally left along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Švestka
On the left pillar via the corner (1st BH) and right along the edge (2nd BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Pravou větví
As "Left Branch" under the overhang and via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Francouzské hole
As "Ski Slope" above 2nd K. Left along the edge over BH to the balcony. Along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Sjezdovka
To the right on the NE side, up the slab over 4 K to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tikající muž
To the right of the "Ypsilon" chimney (routes "Right Branch" and "Left Branch"), up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Levou větví
In the E face, up the chimney under the overhang and via the left crack to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Nevinná zábava
Start in the corner of the S face, through it and the crack to 1st K. Traverse right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Životní omyl
Start via the chimney of the "Left Branch" route for about 10m to the overhang. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Místo nohy nohy
In the S face from the large beech tree via the rib and left crack over BH to 2nd BH. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
2+
Údolní spára
From the start of the "Old Route", traverse into the valley wall to the large hourglass … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Údolní cesta
As "Valley Crack" to the hourglass (rock feature) and to the left of it up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Cesta na pátek
From the "Old Route" to the right at the edge, over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Stará cesta
Up the chimney in the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Cesta zklamání
To the right in the plateau wall up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Cesta přes převis
To the left of "Short Gully", over the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Krátký žlab
About 4m to the left of "Old Route" up the gully. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Průjmová rallye
2m to the right of "5000 Volts", up the small wall into the gully and by it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
5000 Voltů
About 4m to the right of "Plateau Crack" up the wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Cesta zemědělců
From the upper side to the left into the E wall and up the dirty corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Motorika notorika
Follow the route "Export of Communists" above the 3rd K and to the right up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Hrana bouří
Up the SE edge over 2 K to the plateau, traverse right and up the crack to a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Pro starší a pokročilé
Up the eastern wall along the right edge (BH) and over another 3 BH diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Přímá hrana bouří
From the 2nd K of the route "Edge of Storms", straight up the edge over K and BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Schody do pekla
From the terrace in the valley wall diagonally right and along the small cracks (K) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Export komunistů
To the left of "Edge of Storms", up the wall (3 K) and further to the K of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Trosky násosky
To the left of the route "Export of Communists", up the wall over 5 BH to the K of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3