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Climbing at 12. Nad Koňákem

198 routes
24 areas
2–10-/10 grades

Nad Koňákem on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 200 routes on 24 towers – the largest include Březnová věž, Kulich, Nebeská brána, Hnojový dům, Nalepená věž and Strážce Jílového dolu. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 10-/10.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 12. Nad Koňákem has 198 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10-/10. Explore its 24 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

8/8+
Mezikus
As 'První vlaštovka' to the 3rd BH. Traverse right and straight up the face over 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Mezikus
From the start of 'Siloměr', traverse left to the middle of the face (1st BH), in an arc… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Mezikus
In the middle of the valley face through a crack to the 1st BH. To the right through an… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Orlík
Right chimney and left to the ledge at the 1st K. Through the crack over 2 K and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Mezikus
As an "Outsider" via BH to the rim, traverse right around the edge and along it over 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Mezikus
Left of the S edge up the wall over 2 BH, K and BH to the ledge. Wall diagonally right … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Mezikus
Start left of the route "Outsider". Wall directly over BH to the 1st K, further up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Orlík
From the last BH of the route "Odcházení" (Departure) through a hollow over BH and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Orlík
Right of the Mandalax route up the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Orlík
Valley edge over 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Orlík
Shortly up the chimney and left to the 1st BH. Wall directly over the 2nd BH to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Orlík
About 4 meters to the right of the route 'Nádhera' up the wall over 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Orlík
As "Půlnoční rebel" to the 2nd K and directly overhanging wall over 2 BH to the ledge for… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Orlík
From the blocks in the valley wall, step over to the wall (BH), along a falcon's nest and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Orlík
Right of "Cesta povolávacích rozkazů" (Conscription Orders Route) directly up the wall (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Orlík
Left of "Cesta povolávacích rozkazů" (Conscription Orders Route) wall (2 K) and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Úderník
Along the overhanging edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Úderník
Overhanging valley wall over 2 BH, higher up to the left to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Úderník
Center of the W wall over 2 BH and the clock left to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Orlík
Left of the route "Půlnoční rebel" (Midnight Rebel) from the fore-rock through a crack (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9+
Osvobozenec
From the 2nd BH of route 4Eva, wall to the right to the 3rd BH and directly over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Úderník
Left part of the W wall directly to the 1st BH and along the edge to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Úderník
In the middle of the SW wall from the terrace through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Úderník
Left above the lower block along the edge over 3 BH and further up the wall (loop) over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Strážce Jílového dolu
From the center of the SW wall to the right to the falcon's nest and up to the 1st K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Osvobozenec
Center of the wall over 2 BH, then slightly left over 2 BH, overhang to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Strážce Jílového dolu
On the edge of the chimney between the tower and the massif on the balcony at the W edge.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Strážce Jílového dolu
Center of the valley face over 2 K directly into the gully of the "Comic Traverse" and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Strážce Jílového dolu
Left part of the valley face over 7 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Strážce Jílového dolu
From the clock along the edge below the summit head, left wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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