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Climbing at 12. Nad Koňákem

198 routes
24 areas
2–10-/10 grades

Nad Koňákem on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 200 routes on 24 towers – the largest include Březnová věž, Kulich, Nebeská brána, Hnojový dům, Nalepená věž and Strážce Jílového dolu. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 10-/10.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 12. Nad Koňákem has 198 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10-/10. Explore its 24 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

7/7+
Nebeská brána
Left via the corner and edge over 5 BHs to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Nebeská brána
Between the corner and the crack over 7 BHs to the abseil BH. At the 2nd BH from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Nebeská brána
7m left of the Knock, Knock route.. .. via a twin crack (1st BH) below the edge. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Nebeská brána
Left of the corner of the Knock, Knock Knochin route, up the wall over 3 BHs to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2+
Skřítek kameníček
From the NW via the small plateau wall to the right to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Skřítek kameníček
In the middle of the NW face slightly left to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Skřítek kameníček
From the NW into the gully via the wall and along the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Gambler
Right from the terrace via a large notch (4 BH) to abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Mount Žleb
To the left of the “Too long...” route, up the wall via the 1st bolt to the 2nd bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Mount Žleb
In the right part of the wall, up the crack via 4 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Mount Žleb
Along the right valley edge, up the wall to the ledge, traverse left and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Mount Žleb
Along the right valley edge via 4 BH to abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Mount Žleb
Up the smooth slab to the left of the “Contact Goal” route (3 bolts) and from the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Mount Žleb
Start from a stone in the middle of the valley wall. Up the crack via 4 bolts to the end… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Mount Žleb
To the left of the “Frendryska” route, briefly up the corner and on the ledge right to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Mount Žleb
To the right of the “Monkey at the Wheel” route, up the wall (1st bolt) onto a large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Mount Žleb
In the right part of the East wall, up the wall below the overhang (1st bolt). Over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Mount Žleb
In the left part of the East wall via 5 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
Vinohrad
Central part 2 projects. Approved May 16, 2023, permitted until May 16, 2025. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hnojový dům
From the right to the right valley edge of the protruding pillar and along it over BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Brambulák
3 m left of the valley edge, up the wall over BH and a spike to the crack of the "Šulín… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
?
Strážce Jílového dolu
From the massif, descend to the upper edge of the chimney between the tower and the… Rock Climbing
4+
Nalepená věž
From the rock window, by stemming and a crack between the tower and the massif to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Nalepená věž
Via the "Southwest Path" to the ledge and through the corner to the rock window.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Nalepená věž
From the west, through the corner between the tower and the massif to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Nalepená věž
To the right of the "SW path variant" via a crack to the balcony. Through the corner and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
8/8+
Nalepená věž
From the start of the Southwest variant from the balcony, traverse right across the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Nalepená věž
To the right of the start of the "Southwest Path" via a crack to the ledge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Bludný Holanďan
From the V between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bludný Holanďan
About 6m left of the "Chimney route" via a twin crack to the balcony, a wide crack under… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay

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