Nad Koňákem on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 200 routes on 24 towers – the largest include Březnová věž, Kulich, Nebeská brána, Hnojový dům, Nalepená věž and Strážce Jílového dolu. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 10-/10.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 12. Nad Koňákem has 198 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10-/10. Explore its 24 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Březnová věž Kulich Nebeská brána Hnojový dům Nalepená věž Strážce Jílového dolu Orlík Mount Žleb Ypsilon Milenci Mezikus Kryštof Rumunská stěna Nevěrník Brambulák Úderník Vinohrad Skřítek kameníček Urna Divoká stěna Bludný Holanďan Osvobozenec Bludný Belgičan Gambler
5+
Severní hrana - Varianta
Start on the edge, to the ledge, traverse left to the crack and up it to the K of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Vzpomínka na les
In the right part of the valley face, over the 1st K to the ledge of the Comic Traverse … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Severní hrana
Like the "Old Route" to the small balcony and left to the K. Up the face to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Komický traverz
To the right in the valley face, up the face and via a crack diagonally left to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Snesitelná Varianta
Via the route "Unbearable Individualists" into the rib, along it about halfway to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Stará cesta
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the small balcony at the North… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Cesta Nesnesitelných Individualistů
In the right part of the massif, directly up the face to the 1st K and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Headshot
At the right valley edge, over a small overhang to the balcony. To the right via a crack … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Ty na to máš
Via the overhanging face to the right of the route "That's easy" to the ledge (1st BH).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Perunova krev
Via the valley crack (3 BH) over two overhangs and to the right along the edge (3 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
To je easy
To the left in the valley face over two overhangs and further up the face and left along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Adiós Cegoníto
To the left of the route "Climbing means being free" up the face and further along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Člověče nezlob se
From the 1st BH of the route "Climbing means being free" up the face over an overhang and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Lezení znamená být svobodný
To the left in the valley face along the small corner (1st BH) to the balcony in the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Velká voda
Center of the valley face over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Rej masek
South face along the rounded edge and face over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Utajený skutečnosti
In the right part of the valley wall, directly up the wall over 3 BHs and abseil BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Stará cesta - Varianta
From the saddle, up the E wall for about 3m, traverse left and along the SE ridge to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Jitro kouzelníků
Right of Nalepená věž, left up the pillar wall to the 1st BH and further along the blunt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Stará cesta
On the NE side, left onto the detached pillar and through the chimney to the rock window.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Ninja krok
Briefly via the corner like the 'Reduced Work Capacity' route and left to the 1st BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Snížená Pracovní Schopnost
Right of Nalepená věž via a crack to K and diagonally left up the wall to the 5th BH of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
I kosmonauti nosí Pradu
Right of the 'Reduced Work Capacity' route up the wall over ledges into a corner (2 BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Family party
From the summit of Nalepená věž (Glued Tower) via the wall over 2 Ks to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Práce šlechtí
Right of Nalepená věž over 5 BHs, from the right higher into a blunt edge and along it … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Cik cak
Right of the Tourist Trap route via the corner and wall over 3 BHs to the abseil BH. … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Scopolamin
Via the crack in the middle of the S wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Past na turisty
Right of the "Brainwashing" route up the wall over 6 BHs to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Pojďte dál
From the start of the Brainwashing route to the left over 7 BHs to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3