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Climbing at 16. U Josefovy hlavy

167 routes
13 areas
2+–10-/10 grades

U Josefovy hlavy on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 170 routes – most on Zbrojnošova stěna, Josefova (Stalinova) hlava and Karlova stěna, with more on Zbrojnoš, Stelzigův kámen and Kukačka. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection; grades from 2+ to 10-/10.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 16. U Josefovy hlavy has 167 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10-/10. Explore its 13 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.81420, 14.22789

Google Waze
Zbrojnošova stěna 39 routes Josefova (Stalinova) hlava 25 routes Karlova stěna 21 routes Zbrojnoš 13 routes Stelzigův kámen 13 routes Kukačka 11 routes Hladká věž 11 routes Tajga 10 routes Sova 8 routes Volební stěna 6 routes Východní blok 4 routes Kvádr 4 routes Masiv u Josefovy hlavy 2 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6+/7-
Východní blok
Along the Falcon's way on the South edge to the bolt right of the edge, over 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sova
All the way to the right on the South side briefly via the chimney to the balcony, pass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sova
Left in the S face from the boulder diagonally left to the edge to the 1st K. Along the… Rock Climbing
6
Sova
From the 2nd ring of the Anonymous route directly over the overhang and traverse left to… Rock Climbing
5+
Sova
Right part of the S face via 1st K to 2nd K. Traverse left to the edge of the chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Sova
In the S face to the right into the chimney, diagonally right via a crack and traverse… Rock Climbing
5
Sova
From the ring left, via a narrowing crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sova
Up the middle of the SW face via a crack and wall to the K of the "Opening of Springs"… Rock Climbing
6-
Sova
SW pillar via 1BH to the platform, along the edge via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of the Easy Livin route, along the edge and further up the wall via 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 4th bolt of "Masquerade Ball" (ledge), left through the overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 1st bolt of "Hesitant Shooter", steeply left across the wall and rib via 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zbrojnoš
As "Old Route" to the piled boulders and to the left by an open notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Zbrojnoš
From the summit of Stelzig's Stone, descend the wall and crack to the plateau. Jump to… Rock Climbing
2+
Zbrojnoš
From the upper side over the accumulated boulders to the right to the lower side and up… Rock Climbing
6-
Zbrojnoš
By the plateau edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zbrojnoš
From the saddle, an overthrow onto the E edge, briefly up that and traverse left into a… Rock Climbing
5+
Zbrojnoš
From the gorge between the towers, by a crack obliquely left onto the balcony and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Zbrojnoš
By the left plateau edge (3BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zbrojnoš
To the right on the valley edge (by positioning) over a large overhang and a crack, at… Rock Climbing
3
Zbrojnoš
In the valley wall up the chimney above the bivouac or to the left by a crack, then up… Rock Climbing
6
Zbrojnoš
From the gorge between Zbrojnoš and Stelzig's Stone (SE wall), to the left of the start… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zbrojnoš
To the right of the start of the Little Bulls Route (left in the SE wall) directly over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zbrojnoš
In the S wall via an overhanging crack into a niche and up the wall (K) to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing
4+
Zbrojnoš
To the left of the "Valley Route" by an easy edge onto the balcony and by a crack onto… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zbrojnošova stěna
Along the valley edge of the turret between the 'Ahoj' and 'Průzkumná' (Exploratory)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Zbrojnošova stěna
About 3 m from the 'Melodie podsvětí' (Melody of the Underworld) route, over a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbrojnošova stěna
Between the 'Zelené jaro' (Green Spring) and 'Červánky naděje' (Dawns of Hope) routes, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Karlova stěna
By the crack that crosses the entire valley wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Karlova stěna
Left part of the valley wall into the corner and thereby to the 1st K. Through the hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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