Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.

Part of 16. U Josefovy hlavy, Josefova (Stalinova) hlava has 25 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10-/10. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.81420, 14.22789

7+/8-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of the Easy Livin route, along the edge and further up the wall via 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 4th bolt of "Masquerade Ball" (ledge), left through the overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 1st bolt of "Hesitant Shooter", steeply left across the wall and rib via 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the Nagorný massif descend to the ledge, step over and directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Approach to the southern pillar (Sojka) from the rock outcrop. Overhang in the corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the summit of "Sova", along the edge of "Stalin's Head" over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the SW corner briefly to the balcony, directly up the wall into a small crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the valley chimney to the plateau and from there through the E chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Approach from the rock outcrop to the left of the route "Service Leave". Up a small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the chimney to Sova, in its upper part from the corner left into the wall to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of the chimney between Sova and Josef's Head, a corner double crack to a… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the left of the Sunday Chimney route, up the wall to the bolt, right and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of Direct Invitations, over the pillar via 4 bolts to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the top of Sova, along the wall over BH and K into the chimney. Through it over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
In the NW wall, right of the start of the "Konklave" route, through cracks into a shallow… Rock Climbing
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
In the N wall through a deep corner up to below the large overhang (1st K). Traverse left… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the crack and wall over to K directly to 1st K "Invitations". Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the left of "Chimney" on Cuckoo, through a crack, then up the wall to 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Up the wall between the routes Invitation and Direct Invitation over 4 bolts and a rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
As Cult of Personality to the 2nd ring and straight up over 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Between "Cult of Personality" and "Planet of the Apes" up the wall into the hole, along… Rock Climbing
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Left in the N wall via a hand crack to K, traverse right into another crack and along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 1st K of Planet of the Apes, up the wall slightly left over BH to the end of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Right of "Planet of the Apes" up the rib to the 1st K and up to the next rib (2nd K).… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
As "Cult of Personality" to the 1st K and right up the wall and overhang. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.