Part of 11. Mordor, Brusinková věž has 17 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Overhang, Route on sun.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4-
Severní spára
To the right of the NE edge via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Verči den
To the right of the Minuteman route, up the wall via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Brusinkové morfo
To the right of the Verči den route, up the wall via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Minutenman
Up the center of the valley (S) wall via 2 BH (from the 1st BH slightly to the right) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Houpací minecraft
In the left part of the valley wall by the crack, 2 BH to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Muž s koženou brašnou
To the left of Minutenman, up the valley wall via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Údolní komín
From the W traverse left into the chimney in the N face and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Kterýkoliv kámen zvedneš
From the hole on the SW corner upwards over the overhang and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Pravá jižní cesta
Through the center of the S wall over the overhang and up the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Levá jižní cesta
Through the left part of the S wall diagonally left. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Mokrý komín
Via the chimney in the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Východní stěnka
In the center of the E wall between the “Old Route” and the “East Crack” to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Pravá jižní cesta - Varianta
Right in the S wall over the overhang and up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Východní spára
In the E wall via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Jihovýchodní hrana
Over the overhang from the left to the SE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Stará cesta
Right in the uphill wall via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
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