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Climbing at 11. Mordor

177 routes
16 areas
2–11 grades

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor has 177 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

Google Waze
Malý ďábel 35 routes Mistr 19 routes Ďáblova stěna 18 routes Věž Jílového potoka 17 routes Brusinková věž 17 routes Černý Petr 14 routes Baldrick 12 routes Diktátor 9 routes Tvář 7 routes Zub 6 routes Krabice na sušenky 6 routes Cimrman 5 routes Džordžo 4 routes Biváček 3 routes Samotářka 3 routes Samson 2 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
9+
Samotářka
In the right part of the wall via 4 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Samotářka
Through the center of the wall via 4 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10+/11-
Krabice na sušenky
Along the left valley edge via 5 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Krabice na sušenky
Through the center of the N face via two ledges to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Samotářka
In the left part of the wall via 3 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Krabice na sušenky
To the right on the N face to a block and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Krabice na sušenky
Through the center of the S face along a diagonal crack diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Zub
Up the S face diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6
Krabice na sušenky
In the left part of the E face via a bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zub
Through the center of the E face via 2 bolt hangers to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Zub
From the fore-rock via the slabby NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Zub
Up the S face diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6
Zub
Via the overhanging SW edge and slabby face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
2+
Zub
To the right of the "Hiking" route, an overhang from the fore-rock to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Věž Jílového potoka
Up the chimney of the "East Route" to the plateau and traverse right to the N side of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Věž Jílového potoka
Through the center of the SE face via a hole and a small rib to a ledge, traverse 2m left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Věž Jílového potoka
Right in the plateau wall via the chimney to the balcony and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Věž Jílového potoka
Start under the right part of the upper wall. Up the wall and corner under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Věž Jílového potoka
To the right in the E wall, via a smooth wall under the overhang and left via a crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
4+
Věž Jílového potoka
To the right of the SE edge, via a broken crack to the forepeak and as the "East Route"… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Věž Jílového potoka
Left in the valley wall, through a hollow diagonally right via BH to the 2nd BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Věž Jílového potoka
From the rock near the SE edge, traverse to the ledge, then right and as "Humus of the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Věž Jílového potoka
To the right of "Palmex" directly via 3 BH to the 2nd BH of "Palmex". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Věž Jílového potoka
From the start of the Palmex route, directly via the overhanging wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Věž Jílového potoka
To the left of the route "Genocide of Strahov Squirrels" up the wall via 3 BH to rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Věž Jílového potoka
From the plateau side, left into the valley wall and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Věž Jílového potoka
Completely in the right part of the massif, via the overhanging wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Věž Jílového potoka
Right in the valley wall via 4 BH to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Věž Jílového potoka
To the left of the "West Chimney" up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Biváček
Left part of the overhanging wall via 2 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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